KTM 400 EXC Racing (2006) Bedienungsanleitung
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250 SX-F
250 EXC RACING
400 EXC RACING
450 SX, XC, EXC RACING
525 SX, XC, EXC RACING
OWNER’S MANUAL 2006
ART. NR. 3.211.73EN
ENGLISH
ENGLISH
1
IMPORTANT »
Please insert the serial numbers of your motorcycle in the boxes below
Frame number
Engine number
Key number
Stamp of dealer
All information contained is without obligation. KTM-Sportmotorcycle AG particularly reserves the right
to modify any equipment, technical specifications, prices, colors, shapes, materials, services, service work,
constructions, equipment and the like so as to adapt them to local conditions or to cancel any of the
above items, all without previous announcement and without giving reasons. KTM may stop manufactur-
ing certain models without previous notice. KTM shall not be held liable for any deviations of availabil-
ity and/or ability to deliver, illustrations, descriptions, printing and/or other errors. The illustrated models
partly contain extra equipment, which is not applied to standard models.
© 2005 by KTM-SPORTMOTORCYCLE AG, Mattighofen AUSTRIA; All rights reserved; Reprint, also in
extracts, with written allowance of KTM-SPORTMOTORCYCLE AG, Mattighofen only.
Please read this manual carefully and completely before going on your first ride. It contains a great deal
of information and advice which will help you use and handle your bike properly. In your own interest,
please pay particular attention to notices that are marked as follows:
– IGNORING THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAN BE DANGEROUS TO LIFE AND LIMB!
– IGNORING THESE INSTRUCTIONS MAY DAMAGE PARTS OF THE MOTORCYCLE OR IMPAIR THE MOTOR-
CYCLE’S TRAFFIC SAFETY!
COMSUMER INFORMATION FOR AUSTRALIA ONLY
Tampering with noise control system prohibited
Owners are warned that the law may prohibit:
(a) The removal or rendering inoperative by any person other than for purposes of maintenance, repair or
replacement, of any device or element of design incorporated into any new vehicle for the purpose of
noise control prior to its sale or delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use; and
(b) the use of the vehicle after such device or element of design has been removed or rendered inopera-
tive by any person.
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2
INTRODUCTION »
We would like to congratulate you on your purchase of a KTM motorcycle.
You are now the owner of a state-of-the-art sport motorcycle that guarantees to bring you lots of fun and
enjoyment, provided that you clean and maintain it appropriately. Before you go for your first ride, be sure
to read this manual carefully and thoroughly in order to familiarize yourself with how to operate your new
motorcycle and with its characteristics, even if this means that you will have to dedicate some of your
valuable time to this task. Only by doing so will you learn how to tune your motorcycle to your specific
needs and how to protect yourself against injury. Besides, this manual contains important information on
motorcycle maintenance. At the time this manual was typeset, it was up-to-date with the latest state of
this production series. It cannot be completely ruled out, however, that minor discrepancies may exist
resulting from further design upgrades of these motorcycles.This manual is an important part of your motor-
cycle and should be passed on to any subsequent owner in case you decide to sell it.
We expressly point out that work marked with an asterisk in the chapter „Maintenance work on the chas-
sis and engine“ must be performed. If maintenance work should become necessary during a competition
it should be performed by a trained mechanic. KTM strongly recommends that all service work to your
KTM should be performed by a qualified KTM dealer.
For your own safety, use KTM-approved parts and accessories only. KTM is not liable for damage that
arises in connection with the use of other products.
Take special care to follow the recommended run in, inspection, and maintenance intervals. Heeding
these guidelines will significantly increase the life of your motorcycle. To ensure that all work to your KTM
is performed properly and to avoid warranty conflicts, KTM recommends that you always have your KTM
serviced by a recognized and qualified KTM dealer.
Off-road motorcycle driving is a wonderful sport and we hope that you will be able to enjoy it to the full.
It may, however, involve potential problems for the environment or lead to conflicts with others. These
problems or conflicts can be avoided if the motorcycle is used responsibly. To safeguard the future of
motorcycle sports, make sure that you use the motorcycle in accordance with the law, show that you are
environmentally conscious and respect the rights of others.
We wish you a lot of fun when driving !
KTM-SPORTMOTORCYCLE AG
5230 MATTIGHOFEN, AUSTRIA
Attachments: 1 spare parts manual chassis & engine
ENGLISH
3
IMPORTANT LIMITED WARRANTY AND LIMITED GUARANTEE INFORMATION
»
KTM sports motorcycles are designed and constructed to resist the usual wear and tear of normal use in
competitions.
The motorcycles comply with the regulations and categories currently in effect with the leading interna-
tional motorcycle associations.
Observance of the service, maintenance and tuning instructions for the engine and chassis specified in
the Owner's Manual is a prerequisite for faultless operation and the avoidance of premature wear. An
improperly tuned chassis can lead to damage and breakage of the chassis components (see chapter on
checking the basic chassis setting).
The service work specified in the „Lubrication and Maintenance Schedule“ must be performed and serv-
ice records must be kept for warranty documentation. Lack of proper service and maintenance records or
documentation could void warranty.
The fuels and lubricants specified in the Owner's Manual or fluids with equivalent specifications must
be used in accordance with the maintenance schedule.
No claims can be filed under the warranty for damage or consequential damage caused by manipulations
or conversions to the motorcycle.
The use of the motorcycle under extreme conditions, e.g. on extremely muddy and wet terrain, can lead
to higher than average wear on components such as the drive train or the brakes. In this case it may
become necessary to service or replace wear parts before the service limit specified in the maintenance
schedule has been reached.
The SX/SXS, XC and other „competition only“ labeled models are prohibited on public roads.
„On the road“ approved models are only allowed on public roads in the original homologated (throttled)
version. Without this performance restriction (i.e. de-throttled), these models are only allowed to be driven
off-road and not on public roads.
The EXC models are designed for off-road sports endurance competitions(enduro) and not suitable for
predominant motocross use.
Note: The above is a general statement. Specific limited warranty and limited guarantee information may
vary depending upon distribution. Please check with your local KTM dealer for limited warranty and lim-
ited guarantee information specific to your KTM model and region.
In accordance with the international quality management ISO 9001 standard, KTM uses
quality assurance processes that lead to the highest possible product quality.
ENGLISH
4
TABLE OF CONTENTS »
IMPORTANT LIMITED WARRANTY AND
LIMITED GUARANTEE INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
SERIAL NUMBER LOCATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Chassis number . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Engine number, engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Clutch lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Hot start lever (250 SX-F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Hand decompression lever (450/525 SX) . . . . . . . . . .6
Hand brake lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Short circuit button (SX/XC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Combination switch (EXC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Flasher switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Starter button (EXC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Emergency OFF switch (EXC Australia) . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Indicator lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Electronic speedometer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Setting the clock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Filler cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Fuel tap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Choke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Hot start device (450/525 SX) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Shift lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Kickstarter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Foot brake pedal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Side stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Steering lock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Compression damping of fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Rebound damping of fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Damping action during compression of shock absorber (SX)
.15
Compression damping of shock absorber (XC, EXC) . . .16
Rebound damping of shock absorber (SX, XC, EXC) . .16
GENERAL TIPS AND WARNINGS FOR STARTING
THE MOTORCYCLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Instructions for initial operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Running in the Racing models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Check the following before each start . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Starting when the engine is cold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Starting when the engine is warm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
What to do when the engine is „flooded“ . . . . . . . . . .19
Starting off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Shifting/Riding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Braking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Stopping and parking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE . . . .27
Changing the spring preloading of the shock absorber
. .27
Pivot bearing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Basic suspension setup for the weight of the driver . . .28
Checking the shock absorber and spring . . . . . . . . . .28
Determining the static sag of the shock absorber . . . .28
Determining the riding sag of the shock absorber . . . .28
Checking the basic setup of the telescopic fork . . . . .29
Changing the spring preload on the telescopic fork
(SX models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Changing the spring preload on the telescopic fork
(XC/EXC models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Replacing fork springs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Breather plug front fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Cleaning the dust sleeves of the telescopic fork . . . . .30
Checking and adjusting the steering head bearing . . .30
Changing the fork offset (caster) (SX) . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Checking and adjusting the steering head bearing . . .32
Check chain tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Correct chain tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Chain maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Chain wear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
General information about KTM disc brakes . . . . . . . .35
Adjusting the free travel at the hand brake lever . . . . .36
Checking the brake fluid level - front brake . . . . . . . .36
Refilling the front brake fluid reservoir . . . . . . . . . . .36
Checking the front brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Replacing the front brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Changing the basic position of the foot brake pedal . .37
Checking the rear brake fluid level . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Refilling the rear brake fluid reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Checking the rear brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Replacing the rear brake pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Dismounting and mounting the front wheel . . . . . . . .38
Dismounting and mounting the rear wheel . . . . . . . . .39
Checking spoke tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Tires, air pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Check/set distance of the magnetic sensor . . . . . . . . .40
Replacing the battery of the digital speedometer . . . .40
Battery (XC/EXC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Charging the battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Fuse (XC/EXC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Replacing headlight lamp/parking light lamp . . . . . . .42
Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Checking the coolant level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Bleeding the cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Replacing the glassfiber yarn packing of the silencer .44
Cleaning the spark arrester (XC/EXC USA) . . . . . . . . .44
Cleaning the air filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
Checking the adjustment of the hand decompression
release cable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
Adjusting the throttle cables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
Changing the original position of the clutch lever . . . .46
Checking the oil level of the hydraulic clutch . . . . . .46
Bleeding of the hydraulic clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Carburetor – Adjust idling (Keihin-FCRMX 37/39/41)
. .47
Adjusting the mixture control screw . . . . . . . . . . . . .47
Checking the float level (float height) . . . . . . . . . . . .47
Draining the float chamber of the carburetor . . . . . . .48
Oil circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Checking the engine oil level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Engine oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
Changing the engine oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
Changing the oil filters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51
STORAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53
CONSERVATION FOR WINTER OPERATION . . . . . . . . . .53
USE AFTER A PERIOD OF STORAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53
CLEANING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53
TECHNICAL DATA – ENGINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54
TECHNICAL DATA – CHASSIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59
HEAD WORK INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61
WIRING DIAGRAM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .appendix
Page Page
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5
SERIAL NUMBER LOCATIONS »
Chassis number
The chassis number is stamped on the right side of the steering head tube.
Enter this number in the field on page no 1.
Engine number, engine type
The engine number and the engine type are stamped into the left side of the
engine below the engine sprocket. Enter this number on page 1.
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »
Clutch lever
The clutch lever is located on the left side of the handlebar. The adjust-[1]
ing screw is used to change the original position of the clutch lever (see[A]
maintenance work on chassis and engine).
The clutch is hydraulically actuated and adjusts itself automatically.
1A
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »
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6
Hand decompression lever (450/525 SX)
The hand decompression lever is needed only if the carburetor overflows[2]
after a fall. To "pump the engine free", pull the hand decompression lever
during the starting procedure.
The outer end of the lever must provide for a backlash of approx. 10mm (0.4
in) at all times. Only thereafter may it cause valve motion (to be
recognized by the stronger resistance which the hand decompression lever
encounters).
Hand brake lever
The hand brake lever is mounted on the handlebars on the right and [3]
actuates the front wheel brake. The adjusting screw [B] can be used to change
the basic position of the hand brake lever (see "Maintenance").
Short circuit button (SX/XC)
The short circuit button turns off the engine. When pressing this button,[4]
the ignition circuit is short-circuited.
Combination switch (EXC)
The light switch has 2, respectively 3 switch positions.
[A] = Light off (this function is not available in all models)
[B] = Low beam on
[C] = High beam on
You may use button to actuate the horn.[5]
The red short circuit button serves to switch off the engine. Leave the[6]
switch pressed until the engine stops.
A
B
C
2
3
B
4
56
1Hot start lever (250 SX-F)
If you pull the red hot start lever during the starting procedure backward,[1]
a bore in the carburetor will be opened through which the engine may take in
additional air. The result is a „lean“ fuel-air mixture of the type needed for
hot starts.
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7
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »
Headlamp switch (EXC USA)
In this model the headlamp is switched on with the pull switch [1].
Flasher switch
The flasher switch is a separate unit and is mounted on the left portion of the
handlebar.
The wire harness is designed in a way that whenever you want to use your
bike off-road, you can dismount the entire turn indicator system without
affecting the function of the remaining electrical system.
Flasher left
Flasher right
Starter button (EXC)
Pushing the black starter button will actuate the E-starter.[2]
Emergency OFF switch (EXC Australia)
The red emergency-OFF switch is arranged adjacent to the throttle grip.[3]
In this position, the E-starter is operational and the engine can
be started.
In this position, the E-starter and ignition circuits are
interrupted.The E-starter cannot be actuated, and the engine will
not start, not even if you attempt to start it with the kickstarter.
Pushing the black starter button will actuate the E-starter.[4]
2
3
4
5
6
Indicator lamps
The green control lamp flashes in the same rhythm as the flash-[5]
ing indicator when the indicator is working.
The blue control lamp lights up when the high beam is on.[6]
1
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8
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »
TEST
All of the display segments briefly light up for the display function test.
WS (wheel size)
The display changes and the circumference of the front wheel is briefly dis-
played in millimeters (2205 mm corresponds to a front wheel circumference
of 21" with production tires).
Afterwards the display will return to the previous display mode.
Electronic speedometer
The display in the electronic speedometer is activated as soon as you press
a button on the speedometer or an impulse is received from the wheel sen-
sor. The display lights up when the engine is running.
The display is cleared if no button is pressed for 1 minute or no impulse is
received from the wheel sensor.
The button is used to change between display modes. |
The and buttons are used to control various functions. + –
SPEED display mode / H (service hours)
Only the SPEED / H and SPEED / ODO display modes are activated in the
condition at delivery. SPEED/H is displayed whenever the display is activated
and the front wheel is not turning. It automatically changes to the SPEED/ODO
display mode as soon as the front wheel starts turning.
SPEED displays the speed.
H displays the engine's service hours. The service hour counter starts to count
as soon as you start the engine. The displayed figure cannot be changed.
Service intervals are indicated in service hours for some KTM offroad motor-
cycles, making the service hour counter a very practical function.
SPEED / ODO display mode (odometer)
The SPEED/ODO mode displays the speed and the total distance traveled.
The display automatically changes to the SPEED/H display mode when the
front wheel stops turning.
+ button no function
– button no function
briefly press button changes to the next display mode|
hold button 3 secs. changes to the next display mode |
The electronic speedometer has a number of display modes (functions) that
you can also activate (reveal) (see: Activating and deactivating display modes).
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9
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »
SPEED / LAP display mode (lap time)
You can use the manual stop watch to stop and store up to 10 lap times,
which you can view in the LAP/LAP display mode (see below).
LAP displays the lap times in hours, minutes and seconds.
+ button Starts and stops the stop watch, lap time is not
reset to 0
– button Stops the stop watch, stores the lap time and restarts
the stop watch again. The time is reset to 0. A total
of 10 lap times can be stored. If the lap time con-
tinues to run after you press the - button, all 10 mem-
ory locations are occupied.To clear all of the stored
lap times, hold the button for 3 seconds in the|
SPEED/LAP mode.Up to 10 lap times can be stored
in this way.
briefly press |button Changes to the next display mode.If no lap time is
stored or the motorcycle is driving, the LAP/LAP
mode will be skipped.
hold button 3 secs. Clears all LAP figures|
SPEED / CLK display mode (time)
CLK displays the time in hours, minutes and seconds.
+ button no function
– button no function
briefly press button changes to the next display mode |
hold button 3 secs. set the clock menu |
To set the clock, see „Setting the clock“.
Activating and deactivating display modes
In the display mode SPEED/H, press and hold the button for 3 seconds to|
access the SETUP menu. The active functions will be displayed. The blink-
ing function can be activated by pressing the button and deactivated by+
pressing the button.–
Press and hold the button 3 seconds to store the settings. |
If no button is pressed for 20 seconds, the setting will be stored automati-
cally and the display will return to the SPEED/H mode.
+ button activates the blinking display
– button deactivates the blinking display
briefly press |button changes to the next display without changing any
settings
hold button 3 secs. starts the SETUP|
stores the settings and changes to the SPEED/H
mode
The following display modes can be activated:
TR1 tripmaster 1
TR2 tripmaster 2
A1 average speed 1
A2 average speed 2
S1 stop watch 1
S2 stop watch 2
CLK clock
LAP lap time
MAX maximum speed
KMH/MPH display in kilometers or miles (see: Kilometers or miles)
If you have activated all of the display modes, they will be displayed in the
following order:
SPEED/H, SPEED/CLK, SPEED/LAP, LAP/LAP, SPEED/MAX, SPEED/ODO,
SPEED/TR1, SPEED/TR2, SPEED/A1, SPEED/A2, SPEED/S1, SPEED/S2
ENGLISH
10
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »
LAP / LAP display mode (to view lap times)
The LAP/LAP display mode will only be shown if lap times have been stored
and the front wheel has stopped. It will display the lap number and the
stopped lap time in hours, minutes and seconds. Press the button to access+
the next lap time.
To clear all of the stored lap times, hold the button for 3 seconds in the|
SPEED/LAP mode.
+ button changes to the next lap time
– button no function
briefly press button changes to the next display mode |
hold button 3 secs. changes to the next display mode |
SPEED / MAX display mode (maximum speed)
MAX displays the maximum speed traveled and is always active.
+ button no function
– button no function
briefly press button changes to the next display mode |
hold button 3 secs. clears the MAX figure|
SPEED / TR1 display mode (tripmaster 1)
The TR1 tripmaster is always active and counts to 999.9. It is used to meas-
ure the length of a trip or the distance between 2 refueling stops.
TR1 is linked to A1 (average speed 1). The calculation of these figures is acti-
vated by the first impulse received from the wheel sensor (when the front wheel
starts to turn) and stops 3 seconds after the last impulse is received (when
the front wheel has stopped).
The TR1, A1 and S1 figures are automatically cleared after passing 999.9.
+ button no function
– button no function
briefly press button changes to the next display mode |
hold button 3 secs. clears the TR1, S1, A1 figures|
SPEED / TR2 display mode (tripmaster 2)
The tripmaster 2 is always active and counts to 999.9. Contrary to TR1, the
displayed figure can be changed using the +and –buttons. This is a very use-
ful function for trips taken according to a roadbook.
+ button increases the TR2 figure
– button decreases the TR2 figure
briefly press button changes to the next display mode |
hold button 3 secs. clears the TR2 figure|
SPEED / A1 display mode (average speed 1)
A1 shows the average speed based on the TR1 (tripmaster 1) and S1 (stop
watch 1) figures. The calculation of this figure is activated by the first impulse
received from the wheel sensor and stops 3 seconds after the last impulse is
received.
+ button no function
– button no function
briefly press button changes to the next display mode |
hold button 3 secs. clears the TR1, S1, A1 figures|
ENGLISH
11
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »
Kilometers or miles
The unit (kilometers or miles) can also be changed. The ODO figure will be
retained and converted accordingly. The TR1, A1, S1, TR2 and A2 figures
will be cleared.
To select the unit, select the SPEED/H mode and hold the button for 3 sec-|
onds to access the SETUP menu. Press the |button until the KMH/MPH
function blinks. Press the button briefly to move to the options. Press the+
+ – button for KMH or the button for MPH.
To set, briefly press the button 1 x and hold for 3 seconds until the dis-|
play returns to the SPEED/H mode.
If no button is pressed for 20 seconds, the setting will be stored automati-
cally and the display will return to the SPEED/H mode.
+ button to access the menu
to activate the KMH display
– button to activate the MPH display
briefly press button changes to the next mode |
changes from the menu to the SETUP menu
hold button 3 secs. stores and closes the SETUP menu|
SPEED / A2 display mode (average speed 2)
A2 shows the average speed based on the TR2 (tripmaster 2) and S2 (stop
watch 2) figures.
The displayed figure can deviate from the actual average speed if the TR2
figure was changed manually or if S2 was not stopped after the trip.
+ button no function
– button no function
briefly press button changes to the next display mode |
hold button 3 secs. changes to the next display mode |
SPEED / S1 display mode (stop watch 1)
S1 shows the traveling time based on TR1 and continues to run whenever it
receives impulses from the wheel sensor. The calculation of this figure is acti-
vated by the first impulse received from the wheel sensor and stops 3 sec-
onds after the last impulse is received.
+ button no function
– button no function
briefly press button changes to the next display mode |
hold button 3 secs. clears the TR1, S1, A1 figures|
SPEED / S2 display mode (stop watch 2)
S2 is a manual stop watch. Start the stop watch by pressing the +button,
press again to hold. Press again to continue timing.
Press the button to change to the next mode. The S2 display will blink in|
the other modes if S2 continues to run in the background. To stop S2, return
to the SPEED/S2 mode and press the button.+
+ button starts and stops the stop watch
– button no function
briefly press button changes to the next display mode |
hold button 3 secs. clears the S2 figure|
ENGLISH
12
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »
Setting the clock
To set the clock, switch the ignition off and select the SPEED/CLK mode. Press
and hold the button for 3 seconds. The blinking digits can be changed|
using the + and - buttons. Press the button to move to the next digit. 0-|
12 will show the time in the 12-hour mode, 0-24 in the 24-hour mode.
Press and hold the button for 3 seconds to store the settings.|
If no button is pressed for 20 seconds, the settings will be stored automati-
cally and the display will return to the SPEED/CLK mode.
+ button time +
– button time -
briefly press button changes to the next digit |
hold button 3 secs. starts the SETUP menu |
stores the time and changes to the SPEED/CLK dis-
play mode
If the CLK, LAP, MAX, TR1, TR2 A1, A2, S1 and S2 figures are suddenly cleared, the battery in the electronic speedometer is empty
and must be replaced (see: Replacing the battery in the electronic speedometer).
A tripmaster switch is available as an accessory that lets you control the electronic speedometer functions from the handlebar.
Motorcycle is standing
Motorcycle is driving
OVERVIEW OF THE ELECTRONIC SPEEDOMETER FUNCTIONS
display briefly press + button briefly press button– briefly press button hold button 3 secs.| |
XSPEED / H no function no function next display mode
displays the SETUP menu
X X SPEED / CLK no function no function next display mode Setting the clock menu
X X SPEED / LAP starts/stops LAP without
clearing LAP figure
stops LAP, stores LAP
figure, resets LAP to 0 next display mode clears all LAP figures
XLAP / LAP next figure no function next display mode next display mode
X X SPEED / MAX no function no function next display mode clears MAX
XSPEED / ODO no function no function next display mode next display mode
X X SPEED / TR1 no function no function next display mode clears TR1, S1, A1
X X SPEED / TR2 increases the TR2 figure reduces the TR2 figure next display mode clears TR2
X X SPEED / A1 no function no function next display mode clears TR1, S1, A1
X X SPEED / A2 no function no function next display mode next display mode
X X SPEED / S1 no function no function next display mode clears TR1, S1, A1
X X SPEED / S2 starts - stops S2 no function next display mode clears S2
Filler cap (bayonet cap)
To open the filler cap: Turn the filler cap 45 counter-clockwise.°
To close the filler cap: Put the filler cap on and turn it 45 ° clockwise.
ENGLISH
13
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »
Filler cap (screw cap)
To open the filler cap: Turn the filler cap counter-clockwise.
To close the filler cap: Put the filler cap on and tighten it by turning it
clockwise.
Install the tank breather hose without kinks.[1]
Choke
If you pull the choke button out as far as possible, a bore in the carbure-[2]
tor will be opened through which the engine may take in additional fuel. The
result is a „fat“ fuel-air mixture of the type needed for cold starts.
To deactivate the choke, push the choke button back into its basic position.
Hot start device (450/525 SX)
If you pull the hot start device out as far as possible, a bore in the carbu-[3]
retor will be opened through which the engine may take in additional air. The
result is a „lean“ fuel-air mixture of the type needed for hot starts.
To deactivate the hot start device, push the hot start button back into its basic
position.
1
2
3
Fuel tap
OFF In this position the fuel tap is closed. No fuel can flow to the
carburetor.
ON During operation the twist grip must be turned to ON. This means that
the fuel can flow to the carburetor. With the twist grip in this position
the tank will be emptied until only the reserve is left.
RES The reserve tank cannot be tapped until the rotating handle is turned
to the RES position. Fill the tank as soon as possible and remember to
turn the rotating handle back to the ON position so that you will have
backup fuel next time, too.
Reserve XC . . . . . . .3.0 l (0,8 US gallons)
Reserve EXC . . . . . .1.0 l (0,3 US gallons)
OFF ON RES
SX
XC
EXC
ENGLISH
16
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS »
Compression damping of shock absorber (XC, EXC)
The compression damping (during compression) can be adjusted for the XC
and EXC shock absorbers (Mono Compression Control).
The degree of damping can be adjusted by turning adjusting screw [1] with
a screwdriver. Turning in a clockwise direction will increase the damping, turn-
ing in a counterclockwise direction will decrease the damping.
STANDARD ADJUSTMENT:
– turn the adjusting screw clockwise to the stop.
– then turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise, counting the number of
clicks that corresponds to the respective type of shock absorber.
WP 12187B06 . . . . . . . 15 clicks
THE DAMPING UNIT OF THE SHOCK ABSORBER IS FILLED WITH HIGH-COMPRES-
SION NITROGEN. NEVER TRY TO TAKE THE SHOCK ABSORBER APART OR TO DO
ANY MAINTENANCE WORK YOURSELF. SEVERE INJURIES COULD BE THE RESULT.
NEVER UNSCREW THE BLACK SCREW CONNECTION [2] (24MM).
Rebound damping of shock absorber (SX, XC, EXC)
By using the adjusting screw [3], the degree of damping of the rebound can
be adjusted. Turn the knob clockwise to increase damping, turn it counter-
clockwise to reduce damping during rebounding.
STANDARD ADJUSTMENT:
– turn the adjusting screw clockwise to the stop.
– then turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise, counting the number of
clicks that corresponds to the respective type of shock absorber.
WP 12187B03 . . . . . . . 22 clicks WP 12187B05 . . . . . . . 22 clicks
WP 12187B06 . . . . . . . 22 clicks WP 12187B26 . . . . . . . .22 clicks
THE DAMPING UNIT OF THE SHOCK ABSORBER IS FILLED WITH HIGH-COMPRES-
SION NITROGEN. NEVER TRY TO TAKE THE SHOCK ABSORBER APART OR TO DO
ANY MAINTENANCE WORK YOURSELF. SEVERE INJURIES COULD BE THE RESULT.
NEVER UNSCREW THE BLACK SCREW CONNECTION [4] (15MM).
2
1
4
3
ENGLISH
17
GENERAL TIPS AND WARNINGS FOR STARTING THE MOTORCYCLE »
– WEAR SUITABLE CLOTHING WHEN DRIVING A MOTORCYCLE.
CLEVER KTM DRIVERS ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET, BOOTS, GLOVES
AND A JACKET, REGARDLESS OF WHETHER DRIVING ALL DAY
OR JUST FOR A SHORT TRIP. THE PROTECTIVE CLOTHING
SHOULD BE BRIGHTLY COLORED SO THAT OTHER VEHICLES CAN
SEE YOU AS EARLY AS POSSIBLE.
– ALWAYS TURN ON THE LIGHT TO MAKE SURE THAT OTHER
DRIVERS BECOME AWARE OF YOU AS EARLY AS POSSIBLE.
– DO NOT DRIVE AFTER HAVING CONSUMED ALCOHOL.
– ONLY USE ACCESSORIES RECOMMENDED BY KTM. FOR EXAM-
PLE, FRONT PANELLING CAN IMPAIR THE DRIVING PROPERTIES
OF THE MOTORCYCLE. CASES, EXTRA TANKS, ETC. CAN ALTER
THE WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION AND THUS ALSO IMPAIR THE VEHI-
CLES DRIVING PROPERTIES.
– THE FRONT AND REAR WHEEL MAY ONLY BE FITTED WITH TIRES
THAT HAVE THE SAME PROFILE TYPE.
– THE RACING MODELS ARE DESIGNED AND DIMENSIONED FOR
1 PERSON ONLY. NEVER TAKE ANOTHER RIDER ALONG.
– OBSERVE THE TRAFFIC REGULATIONS, DRIVE DEFENSIVELY
AND TRY TO LOOK AHEAD AS FAR AS POSSIBLE SO THAT ANY
HAZARDS CAN BE RECOGNIZED AS EARLY AS POSSIBLE.
– ADJUST YOUR DRIVING SPEED ACCORDING TO THE CONDI-
TIONS AND YOUR DRIVING SKILLS.
– DRIVE CAREFULLY ON UNKNOWN ROADS OR ON UNFAMILIAR
TRIALS.
– WHEN DRIVING OFF-ROAD, ALWAYS HAVE A FRIEND ON A SEC-
OND MOTORCYCLE TO KEEP YOU COMPANY, SO THAT YOU CAN
HELP EACH OTHER SHOULD DIFFICULTIES ARISE.
– REPLACE THE HELMET VISOR OR GOGGLE LENS WHEN
SCRATCHED OR DAMAGED. IF BRIGHT LIGHT SHINES THROUGH
A SCRATCHED VISOR OR LENS, THE OPERATOR WILL BE BLINDED.
– NEVER LEAVE YOUR MOTORCYCLE WITHOUT SUPERVISION IF
THE ENGINE IS RUNNING.
– THE SX/SXS/XC MODELS ARE NOT APPROVED FOR USE ON PUB-
LIC ROADS AND FREEWAYS.
– WHEN RIDING YOUR MOTORCYCLE, PLEASE BEAR IN MIND
THAT OTHER PEOPLE MAY FEEL MOLESTED BY EXCESSIVE
NOISE.
Instructions for initial operation
– Make sure the work for the „pre-delivery inspection“ was per-
formed by your authorized KTM workshop. The DELIVERY
CERTIFICATE and SERVICE MANUAL will be handed over
when you pick up your vehicle.
– Read these operating instructions carefully before your first
ride.
– Familiarize yourself with the operating elements.
– Set the clutch lever, the handbrake lever, and the footbrake
pedal to the positions that are most convenient for you.
– Get used to handling the motorcycle on an empty parking
lot or open space, before starting on a longer drive. Also try
to drive as slowly as possible and in a standing position, to
improve your feeling for the vehicle.
– Do not drive along off-road tracks which go beyond your abitily
and experience.
– Hold the handlebars with both hands and leave your feet on
the foot rests while driving.
– Remove your foot from the foot brake lever when you are not
braking. If the foot brake lever is not released the brake
pads rub continuously and the braking system is
overheated.
– Do not make any alterations to the motorcycle and always
use ORIGINAL KTM SPARE PARTS. Spare parts from other
manufacturers can impair the safety of the motorcycle.
– Motorcycles are sensitive to alterations in the distribution of
weight. If you are taking luggage with you, this should be
secured as close as possible to the middle of the vehicle;
distribute the weight evenly between the front and rear wheel.
Never exceed the maximum permissible laden weight and
the axle weights. The maximum permissible laden weight is
comprised of the following components:
– Motorcycle ready for operation and tank full
– Luggage
– Driver with protective clothing and helmet.
– Pay attention to the running-in procedure.
Running in the Racing models
Even very precisely machined sections of engine components
have rougher surfaces than components which have been slid-
ing across one another for quite some time. Therefore, every engine
needs to be broken in.
For this reason, do not load the engine more than 50% of its
capacity during the first 3 operating hours. Besides, the engine
speed must not exceed 7000 rpm. Avoid going full-throttle!
In the following 12 operating hours, you may load the engine
up to 75% of its capacity. Use the motorcycle on various types
of terrain (road, easy off-road trails).
THE 250/400/450/525 SX/XC/EXC RACING MODELS WERE UNCOM-
PROMISINGLY DESIGNED FOR OFF-ROAD COMPETITION PURPOSES
ONLY. “ON THE ROAD“ APPROVED MODELS ARE ONLY ALLOWED ON
PUBLIC ROADS IN THE ORIGINAL HOMOLOGATED (THROTTLED)
VERSION. AVOID EXTENDED ON-ROAD RIDES AT FULL THROTTLE.
ENGLISH
18
DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS »
Check the following before each start
When you start off, the motorcycle must be in perfect technical condition.
For safety reasons, you should make a habit of performing an overall check
of your motorcycle before each start.
The following checks should be performed:
1 CHECK THE OIL LEVEL
Insufficient oil results in premature wear and consequently to engine
damage.
2 FUEL
Check that there is sufficient fuel in the tank; when closing the filler cap,
check that the tank venting hose is free of kinks.
3 CHAIN
A loose chain can fall from the chain wheels; an extremely worn chain can
tear, and insufficient lubrication can result in unnecessary wear to the chain
and chain wheels. Excessive tensioning of the chain will put additional
load on the components of the secondary drivetrain (chain, bearings of
transmission and rear wheel). Aside from resulting in premature wear, if
worst comes to worst the chain may rupture or the countershaft of the
transmission may break.
4 TIRES
Check for damaged tires. Tires showing cuts or dents must be replaced.
The tread depth must comply with the legal regulations. Also check the
air pressure. Insufficient tread and incorrect air pressure deteriorate the
driving performance.
5 BRAKES
Check correct functioning of the braking system. Check for sufficient
brake fluid in the reservoir. The reservoirs have been designed in such a
way that brake fluid does not need to be refilled even when the brake pads
are worn. If the level of brake fluid falls below the minimum value, this
indicates a leak in the braking system or completely worn out brake pads.
Arrange for the braking system to be checked by a KTM specialist, as com-
plete failure of the braking system can be avoided.
Also check the state of the brake hose and the thickness of the brake
linings.
Check free travel at the hand brake lever and foot brake lever.
6 CABLES
Check correct setting and easy running of all control cables.
7 COOLING FLUID
Check the level of the cooling fluid when the engine is cold.
8 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Check correct functioning of headlamps, tail-lights, brake lights, indica-
tors, control lamps and horn while the engine is running.
9 LUGGAGE
If you are taking luggage with you, check that this is securely fastened.
A
B
1
Starting when the engine is cold
1 Open the fuel tap [1].
2 Swing up the side stand or center stand.
3 Put the gear in neutral.
4 Operate the choke [2].
5 Leave throttle closed and kick the kickstarter briskly ALL THE WAY or actu-
ate the E-starter.
– IF YOU WANT TO START THE ENGINE, MAKE SURE THAT YOU ALWAYS PUT ON
STURDY MOTORCYCLE BOOTS IN ORDER TO AVOID INJURIES. YOU MIGHT SLIP
OFF THE KICKSTARTER, OR THE ENGINE MAY KICK BACK AND PROPEL YOUR
FOOT UPWARD WITH GREAT FORCE.
ENGLISH
19
DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS »
– ALWAYS KICK THE KICKSTARTER BRISKLY ALL THE WAY WITHOUT OPENING
THE THROTTLE. IF YOU DO NOT KICK HARD ENOUGHT, WITH AN OPEN THROT-
TLE GRIP, THE KICK-BACK HAZARD WILL BE HIGHER.
– DO NOT START THE ENGINE AND ALLOW IT TO IDLE IN A CLOSED AREA.
EXHAUST FUMES ARE POISONOUS AND CAN CAUSE LOSS OF CONSCIOUS-
NESS AND DEATH. ALWAYS PROVIDE ADEQUATE VENTILATION WHILE THE
ENGINE IS RUNNING.
– ALWAYS VERIFY THAT THE TRANSMISSION HAS BEEN SET TO IDLE (NEUTRAL)
BEFORE ACTUATING THE STARTER BUTTON. IF YOU START THE MOTORCYCLE
WITH A GEAR ENGAGED, THE MOTORCYCLE WILL MOVE FORWARD.
– MAXIMAL PERIOD FOR CONTINUOUS STARTING: 5 SECONDS. WAIT AT LEAST
5 SECONDS BEFORE TRYING AGAIN.
– DON’T RIDE YOUR MOTORCYCLE WITH FULL LOAD AND DON’T REV UP THE
ENGINE WHEN COLD BECAUSE THE PISTON IS WARMING UP FASTER THAN
THE WATER COOLED CYLINDER AND CAN CAUSE ENGINE DAMAGE.
NOTE: If you have trouble starting the motorcycle, this could be due to old
fuel in the float chamber. The easily inflammable components of the
new fuels evaporate during longer periods of standstill.When the
motorcycle has been out of operation for more than a week, it is there-
fore recommended to drain the old fuel from the float chamber. The
engine will immediately start off when the float chamber is filled with
new fuel.
Starting when the engine is warm
1 Open the fuel tap [1].
2 Swing up the side stand.
3 Put the gear in neutral.
4 Leave throttle closed and kick the kickstarter briskly ALL THE WAY or
actuate the E-starter.
What to do when the engine is „flooded“
In the event of a fall, more fuel than necessary may get into the engine. In
order to „pump the engine free“, pull the hand decompression lever, fully rev
up the engine, actuate the kickstarter 5 to 10 times or actuate the E-starter
2 times for 5 seconds each. Then, start the engine as described above.
If the engine fails to start, unscrew the spark plug and dry it.
NOTE:
The carburetor has an accelerator pump. Every time you open the throttle,
fuel will be injected into the intake passage. When starting, be sure that you
open the throttle completely only once.
Starting off
Pull the clutch lever. Put the engine into first gear, slowly release the clutch
lever and open the throttle at the same time.
BEFORE YOU START OFF, CHECK THAT THE SIDE STAND HAS BEEN SWUNG UP
FULLY. IF THE STAND DRAGS ON THE GROUND, THE MOTORCYCLE CAN GO OUT
OF CONTROL.
Shifting/Riding
You are now in first gear, refered to as the drive or uphill gear. Depending on
the conditions (traffic, hill size, etc.), you can shift to a higher gear. Close
throttle, at the same time pull clutch lever in and shift to the next higher gear.
Let clutch lever go again and accelerate. If you turned on the choke, make
sure you turn it off again as soon as engine is warm.
When you reach full speed through opening the throttle all the way, turn throt-
tle back to 3/4; the speed hardly decreases although the engine will use less
gas. Only give as much gas as the engine can handle. Through quick and high
revving of the throttle, the fuel usage increases.
By shifting down, use the brakes if necessary and close the throttle at the
same time. Pull the clutch lever and shift down to the next gear. Let clutch
lever go slowly and open the throttle or shift down again.
2
ENGLISH
20
DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS »
NOTE:
Dedicated to nothing but offroad racing, 250/400/450/525
SX/XC/EXC Racing models make no compromises in their design.
As such, they do not include any radiator fan, and the size of the
radiator is dimensioned for optimum ergonomics.
In normal racing, the cooling system is sufficient.
If you use your motorbike in other conditions, please note that:
the E-starter allows you to start XC/EXC Racing models again at
any time. Therefore, turn off the engine if you intend to run your
motorcycle in idle or at a standstill for longer periods of time (more
than 2 minutes).
Avoid letting the clutch slip frequently and for extended periods.
This would cause the engine oil to heat up, thereby heating up the
cooling system. You should drive at low speeds (4-stroke style -
letting the engine pull you) and not at high speeds not by letting
the clutch slip (2-stroke style).
– AFTER FALLING WITH THE MOTORCYCLE, CHECK ALL FUNCTIONS
THOROUGHLY BEFORE STARTING UP OPERATIONS AGAIN.
– A TWISTED HANDLEBAR MUST ALWAYS BE REPLACED. DO NOT
ADJUST THE HANDLEBAR, IT WILL LOSE STABILITY.
– HIGH RPM RATES WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD HAVE AN ADVERSE
EFFECT ON THE LIFE OF YOUR ENGINE. WE RECOMMEND YOU RUN
THE ENGINE IN A MODERATE RPM RANGE FOR A FEW MILES GIV-
ING IT A CHANCE TO WARM UP. AFTER THAT NO FURTHER PRE-
CAUTIONS IN THIS RESPECT NEED TO BE TAKEN. THE ENGINE HAS
REACHED ITS OPERATING TEMPERATURE AS SOON AS THE RADI-
ATORS BECOME WARM.
– NEVER HAVE THE THROTTLE WIDE OPEN WHEN CHANGING DOWN
TO A LOWER GEAR. THE ENGINE WILL OVER-REV, DAMAGING THE
VALVES. IN ADDITION, THE REAR WHEEL LOCKS SO THAT THE
MOTORCYCLE CAN EASILY GET OUT OF CONTROL.
– IF ANY ABNORMAL VIBRATIONS OCCUR WHILE DRIVING, CHECK
THAT THE ENGINE FASTENING BOLTS ARE TIGHT.
– IN THE EVENT THAT, WHILE RIDING ON YOUR MOTORCYCLE, YOU
NOTICE ANY UNUSUAL OPERATION-RELATED NOISE, STOP IMME-
DIATELY, TURN THE ENGINE OFF, AND CONTACT AN AUTHORIZED
KTM DEALER.
Braking
Close throttle and apply the hand and foot brakes at the same time.
When driving on sandy, wet or slippery ground use mainly the rear
wheel brake. Always brake with feeling, blocking wheels can cause
you to skid or fall. Always finish braking before you enter a curve.
Also change down to lower gears depending on your speed.
When driving down hill, use the braking effect of the engine.
Change down one or two gears but do not overspeed the engine.
In this way, you will not need to brake so much and the brakes will
not overheat.
– IN CASE OF RAIN, AFTER WASHING THE MOTORCYCLE, AFTER
RIDES THROUGH WATER AND IN CASE OF RIDES ON WET OFF-ROAD
TRACKS, HUMID OR DIRTY BRAKE DISCS CAN DELAY THE BRAK-
ING EFFECT. THE BRAKES MUST BE PULLED UNTIL THEY ARE DRY
OR CLEAN.
–
RIDES ON SALT-STREWED OR DIRTY ROADS CAN ALSO DELAY THE BRAK-
ING EFFECT. THE BRAKES MUST BE PULLED UNTIL THEY ARE CLEAN.
– DIRTY BRAKE DISCS CAUSE INCREASED TEAR OF BRAKE PADS AND
BRAKE DISCS.
– WHEN YOU BRAKE, THE BRAKE DISCS, BRAKE PADS, BRAKE
CALIPER AND BRAKE FLUID HEAT UP. THE HOTTER THESE PARTS
GET, THE WEAKER THE BREAKING EFFECT. IN EXTREME CASES,
THE ENTIRE BRAKING SYSTEM CAN FAIL.
– IF THE RESISTANCE IN THE HAND BRAKE LEVER OR FOOT BRAKE
PEDAL FEELS “SPONGY” (TOO MUCH PLAY), THIS IS AN INDICA-
TION THAT SOMETHING IS WRONG WITH THE BRAKE SYSTEM. DON’T
RIDE YOUR MOTORCYCLE ANYMORE WITHOUT FIRST HAVING THE
BRAKE SYSTEM LOOKED OVER BY A KTM DEALER.
Stopping and parking
Apply the brakes fully and put the engine into neutral. To turn off
the engine, push the short-circuit button or the emergency-OFF
button with the engine at idling speed until the engine stops. Turn
the fuel tap to the OFF position, park on an area where the ground
is firm, and lock the motorcycle.
MOTORCYCLE ENGINES PRODUCE A GREAT AMOUNT OF HEAT WHILE RUN-
NING. THE ENGINE, EXHAUST PIPE, MUFFLER, BRAKE ROTORS, AND
SHOCK ABSORBERS CAN BECOME VERY HOT. DO NOT TOUCH ANY OF THESE
PARTS AFTER OPERATING THE MOTORCYCLE, AND TAKE CARE TO PARK
IT WHERE PEDESTRIANS ARE NOT LIKELY TO TOUCH IT AND GET BURNED.
– NEVER USE THE HAND DECOMPRESSION LEVER TO TURN OFF THE
ENGINE. USE THE SHORT-CIRCUIT BUTTON OR THE EMERGENCY-
OFF BUTTON INSTEAD.
– CLOSE THE FUEL TAP WHEN LEAVING YOUR VEHICLE.OTHERWISE
THE CARBURETTOR CAN FLOOD AND FUEL WILL ENTER THE
ENGINE.
– NEVER PARK YOUR MOTORCYCLE IN PLACES WHERE THERE ARE
FIRE HAZARDS DUE TO DRY GRASS OR OTHER EASILY FLAMMA-
BLE MATERIALS.
NOTE REGARDING THE SIDE STAND:
Use your foot to kick side stand forward up to the stop and lean
the motorcycle sideways. Make sure that the ground is solid and
that your motorcycle is standing securely. Just in case, you can
shift into first gear.
THE SIDE STAND IS DESIGNED TO BEAR ONLY THE LOAD OF THE
MOTORCYCLE. THE SIDE STAND AND/OR THE FRAME CAN BE DAMAGED
AND THE MOTORCYCLE CAN FALL OVER IF YOU MOUNT THE MOTOR-
CYCLE, THUS PUTTING AN ADDITIONAL LOAD ON THE SIDE STAND.
Fuel
The racing engine needs unleaded fuel with at least RON 95 (USA
= Premium RON 91).
USE LEADED OR UNLEADED PREMIUM GRADE GASOLINE (95 OCTANES).
NEVER USE GASOLINE HAVING LESS THAN 95 OCTANES BECAUSE IT
MAY DAMAGE THE ENGINE.
GASOLINE IS HIGHLY FLAMMABLE AND POISONOUS. EXTREME CAUTION
SHOULD BE USED WHEN HANDLING GASOLINE. DO NOT REFUEL THE
MOTORCYCLE NEAR OPEN FLAMES OR BURNING CIGARETTES. ALWAYS
SWITCH OFF THE ENGINE BEFORE REFUELLING. BE CAREFUL NOT TO
SPILL GASOLINE ON THE ENGINE OR EXHAUST PIPE WHILE THE ENGINE
IS HOT. WIPE UP SPILLS PROMPTLY. IF GASOLINE IS SWALLOWED OR
SPLASHED IN THE EYES, SEEK A DOCTOR’S ADVICE IMMEDIATELY.
Fuel expands when its temperature rises. Therefore do not fill the
tank to the top (see fig.).
35 mm
ENGLISH
21
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE »
250 SX-F 2006
A CLEAN MOTORCYCLE CAN BE CHECKED MORE QUICKLY WHICH SAVES MONEY!
1st service after
3 hours
or
20 l fuel
every
10 hours
or
70 l fuel
ENGINE
Change engine oil, oil filter z z
Clean oil screen and drain plug magnet z z
Replace spark plug (after 30 hours)
Check and adjust valve clearance z z
Check engine mounting bolts for tightness z z
Clean the spark-plug connector and check for a tight fit z z
Check the screws on the kick starter and shift lever for a tight fit z z
CARBURETOR
Check carburetor connection boot for cracks and leaks z
Check idle speed setting z z
Check vent hoses for damage or bends z z
ADD-ON PARTS
Check cooling system for leaks, check quantity of antifreeze z z
Check exhaust system for leaks and fitment z
Check cables for damage, smooth operation and bends,
adjust and lubricate z z
Check fluid level of the clutch master cylinder z z
Clean air filter and filter box z
Check electric wires for damage and bends z
BRAKES
Check brake fluid level, lining thickness, brake discs z z
Check brake lines for damage and leaks z z
Check/function smooth operation and adjust free travel of handbrake/foot brake lever z z
Check the screws and guide bolts on the brake system for a tight fit z z
CHASSIS
Check shock absorber and fork for leaks and function z z
Clean fork dust bellows z
Bleed fork legs z
Check swing arm bearings z
Check/adjust steering head bearings z z
Check tightness of chassis screws (triple clamps, fork leg axle passage,
swingarm, shock aborber) z z
WHEELS
Check/adjust steering head bearings z z
Check tires and air pressure z z
Check chain, chain joint, rear sprockets and chain guides for wear, fit and tension z z
Lubricate chain, clean and grease the adjusting screws on the chain tensioner z z
Check clearance of wheel bearings z z
250 SX-F 2006
IMPORTANT RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE WORK THAT CAN BE CARRIED OUT BY EXTRA ORDER
at least
once a year
every
2 years
Complete maintenance of fork z
Complete maintenance of shock absorber z
Clean and grease steering head bearings and gasket elements z
Clean and adjust carburetor z
Treat electric contacts and switches with contact spray z
Change hydraulic clutch fluid z
Change brake fluid z
IF MOTORCYCLE IS USED FOR COMPETITION 10 HOURS SERVICE SHOULD BE CARRIED OUT AFTER EVERY RACE.
Service intervalls should never be exceeded by more than 2 hours or 15 liters of fuel.
Maintenance work done by KTM authorised workshops is not a substitute for care and checks done by the rider.
ENGLISH
24
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE »
250/400/450/525 SX/XC/EXC 2006
IMPORTANT CHECKS AND MAINTENANCE TO BE CARRIED OUT BY THE RIDER
Before
each
start
After
every
cleaning
For cross-
country
use
At least
once
a year
Check oil level z
Check brake fluid level z
Check brake pads for wear z
Check lights for function z
Check horn for function z
Lubricate and adjust cables and nipples z
Bleed fork legs regularly z
Remove and clean fork dust bellows regularly z
Clean and lubricate chain, check tension and adjust if necessary z z
Clean air filter and filter box z
Check tires for pressure and wear z
Check cooling fluid level z
Check fuel lines for leaks z
Drain and clean float chamber z z
Check all control elements for smooth operation z
Check brake performance z z
Treat blank metal parts (with the exception of brake and exhaust system)
with wax-based anti corrosion agent
z
Treat ignition and steering locks and light switches with contact spray z
Check tightness of screws, nuts and hose clamps regularly z
ENGLISH
25
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE »
250/400/450/525 SX/XC/EXC 2006
RECOMMENDED INSPECTIONS OR MAINTENANCE WORK BY THE AUTHORIZED KTM WORKSHOP FOR COMPETITIVE RACING
(ADDITIONAL ORDER FOR THE KTM WORKSHOP)
A 100 liter fuel consumption is equivalent to approx. 15 operating hours
every
15
hours
100
liter
every
30
hours
200
liter
every
45
hours
300
liter
Check the clutch disks for wear z z z
Check the length of the clutch springs z z
Check the cylinder and piston for wear z
Check the groove on the piston pin retainer for wear (visual check) z
Check the camshaft for wear (visual check) z
Replace the camshaft bearings z
Check the length of the valve springs z
Check the spring cap for wear z
Check the eccentricity of the valve disk z
Check the valve guides for wear z
Check the radial clearance of the rocker arm rollers z
Check the elongation of the timing chain z
Check the chain tensioner tooting for damage (visual check) z z
Check the eccentricity of the crankshaft journal z
Replace the conrod bearings z
Check piston pin bearing z
Replace the balancer shaft bearings z
Replace the crankshaft main bearings z
Check the entire transmission including the roller and bearings for wear z
Check the length of the bypass valve spring z
Replace the glass-fiber yarn filling in the silencer (SX) z z z
Replace the glass-fiber yarn filling in the silencer (Enduro) z
Replace the sealing cup for the foot brake cylinder (SX) z z z
Replace the sealing cup for the foot brake cylinder (Enduro) z
Replace the throttle slide, jet needle and main jet holder (every 210 hours)
NOTE:
If the inspection establishes that permissible tolerances are exceeded, the respective components must be replaced.
ENGLISH
26
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE »
NOTE:
If the inspection establishes that permissible tolerances are exceeded, the respective components must be replaced.
250/400/450/525 SX/XC/EXC 2006
RECOMMENDED INSPECTIONS OR MAINTENANCE WORK BY THE AUTHORIZED KTM WORKSHOP FOR HOBBY USE
(ADDITIONAL ORDER FOR THE KTM WORKSHOP)
A 100 liter fuel consumption is equivalent to approx. 15 operating hours
every
30
hours
200
liter
every
60
hours
400
liter
every
90
hours
600
liter
Check the clutch disks for wear z z z
Check the length of the clutch springs z z
Check the cylinder and piston for wear z
Check the groove on the piston pin retainer for wear (visual check) z
Check the camshaft for wear (visual check) z
Replace the camshaft bearings z
Check the length of the valve springs z
Check the spring cap for wear z
Check the eccentricity of the valve disk z
Check the valve guides for wear z
Check the radial clearance of the rocker arm rollers z
Check the elongation of the timing chain z
Check the chain tensioner tooting for damage (visual check) z z
Check the eccentricity of the crankshaft journal z
Replace the conrod bearings z
Check piston pin bearing z
Replace the balancer shaft bearings z
Replace the crankshaft main bearings z
Check the entire transmission including the roller and bearings for wear z
Check the length of the bypass valve spring z
Replace the glass-fiber yarn filling in the silencer (SX) z z z
Replace the glass-fiber yarn filling in the silencer (Enduro) z
Replace the sealing cup for the foot brake cylinder (SX) z z z
Replace the sealing cup for the foot brake cylinder (Enduro) z
Replace the throttle slide, jet needle and main jet holder (every 210 hours)
ENGLISH
27
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Changing the spring preloading of the shock absorber
The spring preload can be changed by turning the adjusting ring . For this[1]
purpose, you should dismount the shock absorber and clean it thoroughly.
NOTE:
– Before changing the spring preload note down the basic setting, e.g. how
many threads are visible above the adjusting ring.
– One rotation of the adjusting ring changes the spring pretension by[1]
approximately 1.75 mm (0.07 in).
Loosen the clamping screw and use the hook wrench contained in the[2]
vehicle tool set to turn the adjusting ring as desired. Turning it counterclock-
wise will reduce the preload, turning it clockwise will increase the
preload.
After readjusting the clamping screw , tighten it to 8 Nm.[2]
ADJUSTMENT VALUES – SPRING PRELOAD A
WP 12187B03 . . . .5 mm (0,2 in)
WP 12187B05 . . . .5 mm (0,2 in)
WP 12187B06 . . .6 mm (0,24 in)
WP 12187B26 . . . .5 mm (0,2 in)
Pivot bearing
The pivot bearing [3] for PDS suspension struts at the swinging fork is Teflon-
coated and must not be lubricated with either grease or other lubricants. Grease
and other lubricants cause the Teflon coat to dissolve, whereby the bearing’s
lifecycle will be reduced dramatically.
When cleaning your bike with a high-pressure cleaner, do not aim the high-
pressure spray directly at the pivot bearing.
A
1
2
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTING WORK MARKED WITH AN ASTERISK (*) REQUIRES EXPERT SKILLS AND TECHNICAL KNOW-HOW. FOR YOUR
OWN SAFETY, ALWAYS HAVE SUCH WORK PERFORMED BY A SPECIALIZED KTM DEALER WHERE YOUR MOTORCYCLE WILL BE OPTIMALLY SERV-
ICED BY APPROPRIATELY QUALIFIED, SKILLED STAFF.
– IF USING A POWER WASHER, DO NOT POINT THE WATER JET AT THE ELECTRIC COMPONENTS, PLUGS, CABLES, BEARINGS, CARBURE-
TOR, ETC. THE HIGH PRESSURE WILL CAUSE WATER TO PENETRATE INTO THE COMPONENTS AND CAN CAUSE THEM TO MALFUNCTION
OR LEAD TO PREMATURE WEAR.
– WHEN TRANSPORTING YOUR KTM, ENSURE THAT IT IS HELD UPRIGHT WITH RESTRAINING STRAPS OR OTHER MECHANICAL FASTENING
DEVICES AND THAT THE FUEL TAP IS IN THE OFF POSITION - IF THE MOTORCYCLE SHOULD FALL OVER, NO FUEL CAN LEAK FROM THE
CARBURETOR OR FUEL TANK
– ONLY USE SPECIAL SCREWS WITH AN APPROPRIATE THREAD LENGTH SUPPLIED BY KTM TO FIX THE SPOILERS ON THE TANK. USING
OTHER SCREWS OR LONGER SCREWS CAN CAUSE LEAKS IN THE TANK THROUGH WHICH FUEL CAN FLOW OUT.
– DO NOT USE TOOTHED WASHERS OR SPRING RINGS WITH THE ENGINE FASTENING SCREWS, AS THESE WORK INTO THE FRAME PARTS
AND KEEP WORKING LOOSE. INSTEAD, USE SELF-LOCKING NUTS.
– LET YOUR MOTORCYCLE COOL DOWN BEFORE BEGINNING ANY MAINTENANCE WORK IN ORDER TO AVOID GETTING BURNED.
– DISPOSE OILS, FATTY MATTERS, FILTERS, FUELS, WASHING DETERGENTS ETC. PROPERLY.
– UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES MAY USED OIL BE DISPOSED OF IN THE SEWAGE SYSTEM OR IN THE OPEN COUNTRYSIDE. 1 LITER OF USED
OIL CONTAMINATES 1,000,000 LITERS OF WATER.
3
ENGLISH
28
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Basic suspension setup for the weight of the driver
To achieve maximum handling performance and to prevent the fork, shock
absorber, swing arm and frame from being damaged, the basic setup of the
suspension components must be suitable for your weight. At delivery, KTM's
offroad motorcycles are set to accommodate a driver weighing 70 - 80 kg (wear-
ing full protective clothing). If your weight exceeds or falls short of this range,
you will need to adjust the basic setup for the suspension components accord-
ingly. Minor deviations in weight can be compensated by adjusting the spring
preload. Different springs must be installed for larger deviations.
Checking the shock absorber and spring
You can establish whether or not the shock absorber spring is suitable for your
weight by checking the riding sag. The static slag must be correctly adjusted
before the riding sag can be determined.
Determining the static sag of the shock absorber
The static sag should be as close as possible to 35 mm. Deviations of more
than 2 mm can strongly influence the motorcycle's performance.
Procedure:
– Jack up the motorcycle until the rear wheel no longer touches the ground.
– Measure the vertical distance between the rear wheel axle and a fixed point
(e.g. a mark on the side cover) and write it down as dimension A.
– Place the motorcycle on the ground again.
– Ask a helper to hold the motorcycle in vertical position.
– Measure the distance between the rear axle and the fixed point again to
establish dimension B.
– The static sag is the difference between dimensions A and B.
EXAMPLE:
Motorcycle jacked up (dimension A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .600 mm
Motorcycle on ground, unloaded (dimension B) . . . . . . . . . . . .– 565 mm
Static sag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 mm
If the static sag is lower, the spring preload of the shock absorber must be
reduced, if the static sag is higher, the spring preload must be increased. See
chapter "Changing the spring preload of the shock absorber."
Determining the riding sag of the shock absorber
– Have a helper hold the motorcycle while you sit on the bike in a normal
seating position (feet on the footrests) wearing full protective clothing and
bounce up and down a few times to allow the rear wheel suspension to
become level.
– Stay on the bike and have another person measure the distance between
the same two points and write it down as dimension C.
– The riding sag is the difference between dimensions A and C.
EXAMPLE:
Motorcycle jacked up (dimension A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .600 mm
Motorcycle on ground, loaded (dimension C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .– 510 mm
Riding sag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90 mm
The riding sag should lie between 90 and 105 mm.
If the riding sag is less than 90 mm, the spring is too hard (the spring rate is
too high). If the riding sag is more than 105 mm, the spring is too soft (the
spring rate is too low).
The spring rate is written on the outside of the spring (e.g. 80/250). The type
number of the shock absorber is embossed on the bottom of the tank.
The illustrations show which spring should be installed. The standard spring
is shown in bold print.
After installing a different spring, readjust the static sag to 35 mm (± 2 mm).
A
A
A
AA
B
B
B
B
B
C
C
C
CC
A
B
C
60
SPRING RATE
65 70 75 80 85 90
RIDERS WEIGHT INCLUSIVE GEARS IN KILOGRAM
76/250
80/250
80/250
84/250
72/250
76/250
WP12187B03 250 SX-F
WP12187B05 450/525 SX
ENGLISH
29
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
According to our experience, the damping rate of the compression stage can
remain unchanged. The damping rate of the rebound stage can be reduced
by a few clicks for a softer spring or increased by a few clicks for a harder
spring.
Checking the basic setup of the telescopic fork
The precise riding sag of the telescopic fork cannot be determined for
various reasons. Similar to the shock absorber, smaller deviations in your weight
can be compensated by adjusting the spring preload. However, if your
telescopic fork bumps frequently (hard end stop during compression), you should
install harder fork springs to avoid damaging the telescopic fork and frame.
Changing the spring preload on the telescopic fork (SX models)
The telescopic forks of the SX models come with a preload adjuster for easy
adjustment of the spring preload. You can adjust the spring preload ± 9 mm
by turning the adjusting screws (basic position = middle position).
NOTE:
Always turn the adjusting screws the same distance on both fork legs. Different
spring preloads on the fork legs will reduce the telescopic fork's response.
Changing the spring preload on the telescopic fork (XC/EXC models)
The telescopic forks for these models must be partly disassembled to adjust
the spring preload (see WP manual). Pretension spacers are available in
heights of 1.5, 2.5 and 5 mm (see spare parts catalog). The fork springs may
not be pretensioned by more than 20 mm.
The preload adjuster used in the SX models can easily be retrofitted for the
telescopic forks of the XC/EXC models.
NOTE:
WP precisely adjusts the spring pressure by inserting pretension spacers.
Fluctuations in production are compensated with pretension spacers in vari-
ous heights. This can cause the fork springs in the fork legs to have different
degrees of pretension. Fork springs and pretension spacers should always stay
together.
Replacing fork springs
If you weigh less than 70 kg or more than 80 kg, you should install the respec-
tive fork springs. The correct spring rate is shown in the illustrations. The stan-
dard spring is shown in bold print. The type number of the telescopic fork is
embossed on the caps on the top of the telescopic fork.
If you are uncertain which spring to use, contact your KTM workshop.
According to our experience, the damping rate of the compression stage can
remain unchanged. The damping rate of the rebound stage can be reduced
by a few clicks for a softer spring or increased by a few clicks for a harder
spring.
60
SPRING RATE
65 70 75 80 85 90
RIDERS WEIGHT INCLUSIVE GEARS IN KILOGRAM
4,4 N/mm
4,6 N/mm
4,6 N/mm
4,8 N/mm
4,2 N/mm
4,4 N/mm
WP14187B03 250 SX-F
WP14187B05 450/525 SX
60
SPRING RATE
65 70 75 80 85 90
RIDERS WEIGHT INCLUSIVE GEARS IN KILOGRAM
4,2 N/mm
4,4 N/mm
4,4 N/mm
4,6 N/mm
4,0 N/mm
4,2 N/mm
WP14187B06 250/400/450/525 XC/EXC
WP14187B29 450/525 XC USA
60
SPRING RATE
65 70 75 80 85 90
RIDERS WEIGHT INCLUSIVE GEARS IN KILOGRAM
80/250
84/250
76/250
WP12187B06 250/400/450/525XC/EXC
WP12187B26 450/525 XC USA
ENGLISH
30
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Breather plug front fork
After every 5 hours of use for competitive racing, slacken the breather
plugs [1] a few turns in order to relieve excess pressure from the inside of the
fork. To do this, place the motorcycle on a stand with the front wheel lifted
off the ground. When riding the motorcycle mainly on the road, it will suffice
to have this job performed in the course of the periodical maintenance
service.
EXCESSIVE PRESSURE IN THE INTERIOR OF THE FORK CAN CAUSE LEAKS IN THE
FORK. IF YOUR FORK IS LEAKING, IT IS RECOMMENDED TO OPEN THE BREATHER
PLUGS BEFORE HAVING THE SEALS REPLACED.
Clean the dust-protection bellows, outer tubes, and fork tubes thoroughly, and
oil them thoroughly with Universal oil spray (Motorex Joker 440) or engine
oil. Then, push the dust-protection bellows into the outer tubes by hand.
NO OIL MAY REACH THE FRONT TIRE OR THE BRAKE DISKS SINCE THIS WOULD
CONSIDERABLY REDUCE THE TIRE'S ROAD GRIP AND THE BRAKING EFFECT OF
THE FRONT BRAKE.
Checking and adjusting the steering head bearing *
Check steering head bearing for play periodically. To check, put the motorcy-
cle on a stand so that the front wheel is off the ground. Now try to move the
fork forward and backward. For readjusting, loosen the five pinch bolts [3]
and [5] of the top triple clamp and turn steering stem bolt clockwise [4] until
there is no more play. Don’t tighten the steering stem bolt all the way, other-
wise the bearings will be damaged. With a plastic hammer, lightly tap on the
triple clamp to release tension. Retighten the five pinch bolts to 20 Nm (EXC)
and 17 Nm (SX).
– IF THE STEERING HEAD BEARING IS NOT ADJUSTED TO BE FREE OF PLAY,
THE MOTORCYCLE WILL EXHIBIT UNSTEADY DRIVING CHARACTERISTICS AND
CAN GET OUT OF CONTROL.
– A PLASTIC INSERT IN THE THREAD OF THE CLAMPING SCREW [5] MAKES IT
SELF-LOCKING. THE CLAMPING SCREW MUST BE REPLACED IF IT CAN BE
TURNED IN BY HAND.
IF YOU DRIVE WITH PLAY IN THE STEERING HEAD BEARING FOR LONGER PERI-
ODS, THE BEARINGS AND SUBSEQUENTLY THE BEARING SEATS IN THE FRAME
WILL BE DESTROYED.
The steering head bearings should be regreased at least once a year
(e.g. Motorex Long Term 2000).
1
2
Cleaning the dust sleeves of the telescopic fork
The dust-protection bellows are to remove dust and coarse dirt particles[2]
from the fork tube. However, after some time, dirt may also get in behind the
dust-protection bellows. If this dirt is not removed, the oil sealing rings located
behind it may start to leak.
Use a screwdriver to lift the dust-protection bellows out of the outer tubes
and slide them downward.
5
4
3
3
ENGLISH
31
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
B
A
2
1
3
2
5
4
3
4
5
2
Changing the fork offset (caster) (SX) *
The fork offset in the SX models (center fork legs - center steering head[A]
angle) can be set to either 18 or 20 mm. This allows you to optimize the han-
dling to match the race course.
Remove the blind screw to see which offset is set. If the mark [1] [B] is in
front, the offset is 18 mm. This setting will deliver more directional stability
on fast race courses.
If the mark is in the rear as illustrated, the offset is 20 mm. This setting[B]
will deliver better handling in curves.
The offset is set to 20 mm in the condition at delivery.
To adjust the offset, dismount the front wheel and remove the front wheel
fender.
Remove the screw on the starting number plate. Remove the clamp screws
on the hand brake cylinder and fasten the hand brake cylinder to the left fork
leg with a cable tie to keep the brake line from kinking (see illustration).
Loosen the clamp screws and take the fork legs out of the triple clamps.
Loosen the collar screw on the lower triple clamp 2 turns. [2]
Remove the blind screw from the upper triple clamp, loosen the clamp[1]
screw and upper triple clamp on the seat. Remove the O-ring and the pro-[3]
tection ring . [4]
Tap gently on the lower triple clamp with a rubber hammer to loosen the steer-
ing stem [5] out of the bearing seat. Take the lower triple clamp with the steer-
ing stem out of the steering head.
Remove the collar screw from the lower triple clamp and pull out the steer-
ing stem. Thoroughly clean all parts. Turn the steering stem 180° and insert
it in the triple clamp, tighten the collar screw all the way to the stop.
– A PLASTIC INSERT IN THE COLLAR SCREW THREAD MAKES THE COLLAR
SCREW SELF-LOCKING. REPLACE IF THE COLLAR SCREW CAN BE SCREWED
IN BY HAND.
– DO NOT CONFUSE THE COLLAR SCREW WITH THE BLIND SCREW. THE COL-
LAR SCREW IS SELF-LOCKING.
Grease the steering head bearing and sealing elements.
ENGLISH
32
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
15 mm
3,5 mm
1
2
3
4
Mount the lower triple clamp, upper steering head bearing, protection ring,
O-ring, upper triple clamp and the blind screw.
Tighten the collar screw on the lower triple clamp to 60 Nm.
Mount the fork legs and tighten the clamp screws on the lower triple clamp
to 10 Nm in 3 stages.
Adjust the steering head bearing without clearance (see: Checking and adjust-
ing the steering head support) and tighten the clamp screws on the upper
triple clamp to 17 Nm in 3 stages.
Mount the front wheel fender and tighten the screws to 10 Nm.
Mount the hand brake cylinder and tighten the screws to 10 Nm.
Mount the staring number plate.
Mount the front wheel (see: Dismounting and mounting the front wheel).
How to change the handlebar position
The handlebar position can be readjusted by 22 mm. Thus, you can put the
handlebar in the position that is the most convenient for you. The upper triple
clamp [1] includes 2 bores arranged at a distance of 15 mm (0.6 in) from
one another. The bores at the handlebar support are offset from the cen-[2]
ter by 3.5 mm (0.13 in). Accordingly, you can mount the handlebar in
4 different positions.
For this purpose, remove screws of the handlebar clamps and screws [3] [4]
of the handlebar support. Position the handlebar support, and tighten screws
[4] to 40 Nm (30 ft.lbs). Mount the handlebar and handlebar clamps, and
tighten screws to 20 Nm (15 ft.lbs). The gap between the handlebar sup-[3]
port and the handlebar clamps should be the same size in the front and in
the rear.
THE SCREWS MUST BE SECURED WITH LOCTITE 243.[4]
ENGLISH
34
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Chain maintenance
For a long chain life, good maintenance is very important. Chains without
X-rings should be cleaned in fireproof solvent regularly and afterwards treated
with hot grease or chain spray (e.g. Motorex Chainlube 622).
X-ring chains on the other hand are very simple to clean. The best way is to
use lots of water, but never use brushes or cleaning liquids. After letting the
chain dry, you can use a special X-ring chain spray (e.g. Motorex Chainlube
622).
NO LUBRICATION IS ALLOWED TO REACH THE REAR TIRE OR THE BRAKE DISKS,
OTHERWISE THE ROAD ADHERENCE AND THE REAR WHEEL BRAKING EFFECTS
WOULD BE STRONGLY REDUCED AND THE MOTORCYCLE COULD EASILY LOSE
CONTROL.
WHEN MOUNTING THE CHAIN MASTERLINK CLIP, THE CLOSED SIDE OF THE
MASTERLINK CLIP MUST POINT IN RUNNING DIRECTION.
Also check sprockets and chain guides for wear and replace if necessary.
Chain wear
To check the chain wear, observe the following indications:
Shift the gear into idling and pull the upper chain strand with approx. 10-15
Kilograms (33 lb) upwards (see figure). Now one can measure a space of 18
chain reels at the lower chain strand. The chain should be replaced at the
latest when a space of 272 mm (10.70 in) is measured. Chains do not always
wear off evenly, therefore repeat the measurement at different places on the
chain.
NOTE:
If you mount a new chain, the sprockets should also be replaced. New chains
wear faster if used on old used sprockets.
SECURE THE SCREWS OF THE CHAIN WHEEL BY APPLYING LOCTITE AND FASTEN
THEM IN A CROSSWISE ORDER.
TIGHTENING TORQUE FOR NUTS: 35 NM.
TIGHTENING TORQUE FOR SCREWS: 50 NM.
15 KG
33 lbs
max. 272 mm
1 2 3
16 17 18
ENGLISH
35
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
General information about KTM disc brakes
BRAKE CALIPERS:
The brake calipers of this series use a „floating“ mount. This means that the
brake calipers are not solidly attached to the caliper support, which enables
them to „float“ for maximum braking contact. Secure the screws of the caliper
support with Loctite 243 and tighten to 25 Nm.
BRAKE PADS:
The brake pads are fitted with TOSHIBA TT 2701 sintered lining at the front
and TOYO B 143 FF sintered lining at the back. These linings provide an opti-
mal combination of dosing, brake performance and life cycle. The lining type
is stated on the back of the brake pad and also recorded in the homologation
papers.
Other brake pads are available for competition sports.
FRONT: TOSHIBA H 38 (SINTERED) – harder to dose, good brake per-
formance, long life, for wet slippery terrain.
FERODO ID 450 (ORGANIC) – easy to dose, good brake per-
formance, short life, for dry terrain, low price
REAR: FERODO 4424 (organic) – better controllability, shorter service
life, for dry terrain.
TOSHIBA H38 (Sinter) – longer service life than FERODO 4424,
higher braking performance.
BRAKE DISCS:
Due to wear, the thickness of the brake disc in the area of the contact
face [1] of the brake pads decreases. The brake disk must be at least
2.80 mm thick at the thinnest point . Check the thickness of the brake[A]
disk at several points.
– BRAKE DISCS SUFFERING FROM WEAR GREATER THAN 0,4 MM (0,016 IN)
CONSTITUTE A SAFETY RISK. HAVE THE BRAKE DISCS REPLACED IMMEDI-
ATELY AS SOON AS THEY REACH THE WEAR LIMIT.
– HAVE ANY REPAIRS ON THE BRAKE SYSTEM BE PERFORMED BY A KTM DEALER
BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIRS:
The brake fluid reservoirs on the front and rear wheel brakes have been
designed in such a way that even if the brake pads are worn it is not neces-
sary to top up the brake fluid. If the brake fluid level drops below the mini-
mum level either the brake system has a leak or the brake pads are completely
worn.In this case, consult an authorized KTM dealer immediately.
BRAKE FLUID:
KTM fills the brake systems with Motorex Brake Fluid DOT 5.1 brake fluid,
one of the best brake currently available. We recommend that you continue
to use it. DOT 5.1 brake fluid is based on glycol ether and of an amber color.
If you do not have any DOT 5.1 for refilling, you may use DOT 4 brake fluid.
However, you should replace it as soon as possible with DOT 5.1.
Never use brake fluid DOT 5. The color of this silicon oil-based product is
purple red. The gaskets and brake hoses of KTM motorcycles are not
designed for DOT 5 brake fluid.
HAVE THE BRAKE FLUID CHANGED AT LEAST ONCE ANNUALLY. IF YOU WASH YOUR
MOTORCYCLE OFTEN, THE BRAKE FLUID SHOULD BE CHANGED EVEN MORE FRE-
QUENTLY. BRAKE FLUID TENDS TO ABSORB WATER. THEREFORE, VAPOR POCK-
ETS MAY FORM IN "OLD" BRAKE FLUIDS EVEN AT LOW TEMPERATURES, CAUSING
THE BRAKE SYSTEM TO FAIL.
1
A
ENGLISH
36
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Adjusting the free travel at the hand brake lever
Free travel at the hand brake lever may be readjusted by using adjustment
screw [1]. In this way, the position of the point of pressure (i.e. the resis-tance
you feel on the hand brake lever when the brake pads are pressed against the
brake disc) can be adjusted for any hand size.
When you press the hand brake lever forwards, you should have at least
3 mm free travel. Turn the adjusting screw if necessary.[1]
AT THE HAND BRAKE LEVER, FREE TRAVEL MUST AT LEAST BE 3 MM (0.1 IN).
ONLY THEN MAY THE PISTON IN THE HAND BRAKE CYLINDER BE MOVED (TO BE
RECOGNIZED BY THE GREATER RESISTANCE OF THE HAND BRAKE LEVER). IF THIS
FREE TRAVEL IS NOT PROVIDED, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP IN THE BRAKING
SYSTEM, AND THE FRONT-WHEEL BRAKE MAY FAIL DUE TO OVERHEATING.
Checking the brake fluid level - front brake
The brake fluid reservoir is linked with the hand brake cylinder at the handle-
bar and the reservoir is provided with an inspection glass. With the reservoir
in a horizontal position, the brake fluid level should not drop below the
middle of the glass.
IF THE BRAKE FLUID LEVEL DROPS BELOW THE MINIMUM EITHER THE BRAKE
SYSTEM HAS A LEAK OR THE BRAKE PADS ARE COMPLETELY WORN. IN THIS CASE,
CONSULT AN AUTHORIZED KTM DEALER IMMEDIATELY.
Refilling the front brake fluid reservoir *
Loosen screws and remove lid and membrane . [2] [3] [4]
Place hand brake cylinder in a horizontal position and fill the brake fluid reser-
voir to 5 mm (0.2 in) below the rim with clean brake fluid DOT 5.1 (e.g. Motorex
Brake Fluid DOT 5.1). Replace membrane and lid, tighten screws. Rinse off
spilled or overflowing brake fluid with water.
– NEVER USE DOT5 BRAKE FLUID! IT IS BASED ON SILICONE OIL AND OF A
PURPLE COLOR. SEALS AND BRAKE HOSES MUST BE ESPECIALLY ADAPTED
TO IT.
– STORE BRAKE FLUID OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
– BRAKE FLUID CAN CAUSE SKIN IRRITATION. AVOID CONTACT WITH SKIN AND
EYES. IF YOU GET BRAKE FLUID IN YOUR EYES, RINSE WITH PLENTY OF WATER
AND CONSULT A DOCTOR
– DON’T LET BRAKE FLUID GET IN CONTACT WITH PAINT, IT IS AN EFFECTIVE
PAINT REMOVER.
– USE ONLY CLEAN BRAKE FLUID TAKEN FROM A TIGHTLY SEALED CONTAINER.
Checking the front brake pads
The brake pads can be inspected from below. The linings must be at least
1 mm (0.04 in) thick.
AT THEIR MOST WORN POINT BRAKE PAD LININGS SHOULD NOT BE THINNER
THAN 1 MM, OTHERWISE THEY COULD LEAD TO BRAKE FAILURE. FOR YOUR OWN
SAFETY DON’T PUT OFF HAVING YOUR BRAKE PADS CHANGED.
IF THE BRAKE PADS ARE REPLACED TOO LATE SO THAT THE LINING IS PARTLY
OR ENTIRELY WORN, THE STEEL COMPONENTS OF THE BRAKE PAD WILL RUB
AGAINST THE BRAKE DISC, THEREBY IMPARING THE BRAKING EFFECT AND
DESTROYING THE BRAKE DISC.
min.
1 mm
5 mm
min. 3 mm
1
3
2
4
ENGLISH
37
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Replacing the front brake pads *
Press the brake caliper toward the brake disk, to put the brake piston in its
basic position. Remove clips and pull out bolt . Remove brake pads[1] [2]
from the brake caliper. Clean the brake caliper and the brake caliper support
with compressed air. Check the sleeves of the guide bolts for damage, and
grease guide bolts if necessary.
Mount the right brake pad and fix it with the bolt. Mount the left brake pad
and insert the bolt until it stops. Mount the clips.
When mounting the brake pads, be sure to check for correct fit of the
sliding metal-sheet in the caliper support and of the leaf spring [3] [4].
– IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO KEEP THE BRAKE DISK FREE FROM OIL AND FATTY
MATTERS. OTHERWISE, THE BRAKING EFFECT WOULD BE STRONGLY REDUCED.
– AFTER ASSEMBLY, CHECK IF CIRCLIPS HAVE BEEN FITTED CORRECTLY.
– AFTER WORKING ON THE BRAKING SYSTEM, ALWAYS ACTUATE THE HAND BRAKE
LEVER OR FOOT BRAKE LEVER, RESPECTIVELY TO ENSURE THAT THE BRAKE
PADS WILL LIE AGAINST THE BRAKE DISK AND THE PRESSURE POINT IS
ESTABLISHED.
Changing the basic position of the foot brake pedal *
The basic position of the foot brake pedal can be altered by turning the stop
screw [5]. The free play at the foot brake pedal must then be adjusted by
means of the piston rod [6].
Measured on the outside, the foot brake pedal must have 3-5 mm (0.12–0.20
in) of free play before the piston rod can move the piston in the brake cylin-
der (to be recognised from the resistance on the foot brake pedal).
IF THIS FREE PLAY IS NOT PRESENT, THEN PRESSURE CAN BUILD UP IN THE
BRAKE SYSTEM WHEN DRIVING, CAUSING THE REAR WHEEL TO BRAKE.THE
BRAKING SYSTEM OVERHEATS AND MAY EVEN FAIL COMPLETELY IN EXTREME
CASES.
Checking the rear brake fluid level
The reservoir for the rear brake disk is located on the right side of the motor-
cycle on the rear brake cylinder.
No air bubble should be visible in inspection glass when the vehicle is[A]
parked in a vertical position.
IF THE BRAKE FLUID LEVEL DROPS BELOW THE MINIMUM EITHER THE BRAKE
SYSTEM HAS A LEAK OR THE BRAKE PADS ARE COMPLETELY WORN. IN THIS CASE,
CONSULT AN AUTHORIZED KTM DEALER IMMEDIATELY.
Refilling the rear brake fluid reservoir *
Add brake fluid as soon as a bubble is visible in inspection glass [A].
To top up, remove screw . Fill DOT5.1 brake fluid (e.g. Motorex Brake Fluid[7]
DOT 5.1) up to the mark on the inside of the reservoir and remount the[B]
screw. Spilled brake fluid must be rinsed off with water.
– NEVER USE DOT5 BRAKE FLUID! IT IS BASED ON SILICONE OIL AND OF A
PURPLE COLOR. SEALS AND BRAKE HOSES MUST BE ESPECIALLY ADAPTED
TO IT.
– STORE BRAKE FLUID OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
– BRAKE FLUID CAN CAUSE SKIN IRRITATION. AVOID CONTACT WITH SKIN AND
EYES. IF YOU GET BRAKE FLUID IN YOUR EYES, RINSE WITH PLENTY OF WATER
AND CONSULT A DOCTOR.
– DON’T LET BRAKE FLUID GET IN CONTACT WITH PAINT, IT IS AN EFFECTIVE
PAINT REMOVER.
– USE ONLY CLEAN BRAKE FLUID TAKEN FROM A TIGHTLY SEALED CONTAINER.
3-5mm
1
1
2
21
2
4
3
6
5
A
B
7
ENGLISH
38
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Checking the rear brake pads
The brake pads can be inspected from the rear. The thickness of the linings
may not be less than 1 mm (0.04 in).
AT THEIR MOST WORN POINT BRAKE PAD LININGS SHOULD NOT BE THINNER
THAN 1 MM, OTHERWISE THEY COULD LEAD TO BRAKE FAILURE. FOR YOUR OWN
SAFETY DON’T PUT OFF HAVING YOUR BRAKE PADS CHANGED.
IF THE BRAKE PADS ARE REPLACED TOO LATE SO THAT THE LINING IS PARTLY
OR ENTIRELY WORN, THE STEEL COMPONENTS OF THE BRAKE PAD WILL RUB
AGAINST THE BRAKE DISC, THEREBY IMPARING THE BRAKING EFFECT AND
DESTROYING THE BRAKE DISC.
Replacing the rear brake pads *
Push the brake caliper toward the chain wheel in order to move the brake[1]
piston into its basic position. Remove the clips , pull out the bolt , and[2] [3]
remove the brake pads. Thoroughly clean the brake caliper with compressed
air and check the sleeves of the guide bolts for damage.
Insert the left brake pad into the brake caliper and secure it with the bolt.
Insert the right brake pad and push the bolt into the brake caliper up to[3]
the stop. Reattach clips [2].
– IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO KEEP THE BRAKE DISK FREE FROM OIL AND FATTY
MATTERS. OTHERWISE, THE BRAKING EFFECT WOULD BE STRONGLY REDUCED.
– AFTER ASSEMBLY, CHECK IF CLIPS HAVE BEEN FITTED CORRECTLY.
– AFTER WORKING ON THE BRAKING SYSTEM, ALWAYS ACTUATE THE HAND BRAKE
LEVER OR FOOT BRAKE LEVER, RESPECTIVELY TO ENSURE THAT THE BRAKE
PADS WILL LIE AGAINST THE BRAKE DISK AND THE PRESSURE POINT IS
ESTABLISHED.
Dismounting and mounting the front wheel
To remove the front wheel, jack the motorcycle up on its frame so that the
front wheel no longer touches the ground.
Loosen the 2 clamping screws on the left side of the fork fists.[4]
Loosen and remove the collar nut ., loosen the clamping screews [5] [6] on
the right side of the fork fist.
Hold the front wheel, pull out the wheel spindle [7].
NOTE: The wheel spindle can be easily removed if you slightly revolve it with
a ring spanner (SW 27 mm).
Carefully remove the front wheel from the fork.
– DO NOT OPERATE THE HAND BRAKE WHEN THE FRONT WHEEL HAS BEEN
DISMOUNTED.
– MAKE SURE THE BRAKE DISC IS ALWAYS ON TOP WHEN YOU LAY DOWN THE
WHEEL, OTHERWISE THE BRAKE DISC CAN BE DAMAGED.
To install the front wheel, lift it into the fork, position and mount the axle
shaft. Mount the collar nut , tighten the clamping screws on the right[5] [6]
fork leg axle passage to prevent the axle shaft from turning and tighten the
collar nut to 40 Nm (30ft.lb).
Loosen the clamp screws on the right fork leg. Take the motorcycle down from
its stand. Press the front wheel brakes and push down on the fork a few times
vigorously so that the fork legs come into alignment.
Only after this has been accomplished, tighten the clamp screws on both fork
legs with 15 Nm.
min.
1 mm
1
2
3
4
5
6
ENGLISH
39
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
– IF YOU DON’T HAPPEN TO HAVE A TORQUE WRENCH AT HAND, MAKE SURE
YOU HAVE THE TIGHTENING TORQUE CORRECTED BY A KTM DEALER AS SOON
AS POSSIBLE. A LOOSE AXLE MAY LEAD TO AN UNSTABLE DRIVING BEHAV-
IOR OF YOUR MOTORCYCLE.
– AFTER MOUNTING THE FRONT WHEEL, KEEP OPERATING THE HAND BRAKE
UNTIL THE PRESSURE POINT RETURNS.
– IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO KEEP THE BRAKE DISK FREE FROM OIL AND FATTY
MATTERS, OTHERWISE THE BRAKING EFFECT WOULD BE STRONGLY REDUCED.
Dismounting and mounting the rear wheel
Jack the motorcycle up on its frame so that the rear wheel no longer
touches the ground.
Remove the collar nut , remove the chain tensioner [1] [2] and pull out the
wheel spindle until you can push the rear wheel forwards. [3]
Take the chain off the rear sprocket, pull out the wheel spindle and carefully
remove the rear wheel from the swing arm.
– DO NOT OPERATE THE REAR BRAKE WHEN THE REAR WHEEL HAS BEEN
DISMOUNTED.
– MAKE SURE THE BRAKE DISC IS ALWAYS ON TOP WHEN YOU LAY DOWN THE
WHEEL, OTHERWISE THE BRAKE DISC CAN BE DAMAGED.
– IF THE AXLE IS DISMOUNTED, CLEAN THE THREAD OF THE WHEEL SPINDLE
AND COLLAR NUT THOROUGHLY AND APPLY A NEW COAT OF GREASE TO PRE-
VENT THE THREAD FROM JAMMING.
The rear wheel is remounted in the reverse order. Before tightening the col-
lar nut to 80 Nm, push the rear wheel forwards so that the chain tensioners
lie on the tension screws.
– IF YOU DON’T HAPPEN TO HAVE A TORQUE WRENCH AT HAND, MAKE SURE
YOU HAVE THE TIGHTENING TORQUE CORRECTED BY A KTM DEALER AS SOON
AS POSSIBLE. A LOOSE AXLE MAY LEAD TO AN UNSTABLE DRIVING BEHAV-
IOR OF YOUR MOTORCYCLE.
– AFTER MOUNTING THE REAR WHEEL, KEEP OPERATING THE REAR BRAKE UNTIL
THE PRESSURE POINT RETURNS.
– IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO KEEP THE BRAKE DISK FREE FROM OIL AND FATTY
MATTERS, EITHERWISE THE BRAKING EFFECTS WOULD BE STRONGLY REDUCED.
– TIGHTEN THE COLLAR NUT WITH THE REQUIRED TORQUE. A LOOSE WHEEL
SPINDLE MAY LEAD TO AN UNSTABLE BEHAVIOR OF YOUR MOTORCYCLE.
Checking spoke tension
The correct spoke tension is very important for the stability of the wheels and
thus for riding safety. A loose spoke causes the wheel to become unbalanced
and before long other spokes will have come loose. Check spoke tension, espe-
cially on a new motorcycle, at regular intervals. For checking, tap on each
spoke with the blade of a screwdriver (see photo). A clear tone must be the
result. Dull tones are indicators of loose spokes. If necessary, have the spokes
retightened and the wheel centered by a KTM dealer.
– SPOKES CAN TEAR IF YOU CONTINUE TO RIDE WITH THEM LOOSE. THIS MAY
LEAD TO AN UNSTABLE HANDLING OF YOUR MOTORCYCLE.
– EXCESSIVELY TENSIONED SPOKES MAY RUPTURE DUE TO LOCAL OVERLOAD-
ING.THE SPOKES MUST BE TENSIONED TO 5 NM.
7
1
2
3
ENGLISH
42
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Fuse (XC/EXC)
The fuse is located in the starter relay of the E-starter underneath the[1] [2]
left side paneling.
Having removed the left side paneling, the air box cover and the protection
cover , you will be able to see the fuse. [A]
The following loads are connected to it:
– E-starter system
– horn
– flasher lights
– electronic speedometer
The starter relay also contains a (10 amp) spare fuse [3].
Replace a blown fuse only with an equivalent one. If a new fuse that has just
been installed gets blown again, you are strongly advised to have it
inspected by a KTM dealer.
The fuse capacity is 10 Ampere.
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES IS A STRONGER FUSE ALLOWED TO BE INSTALLED
OR A FUSE ALLOWED TO BE “REPAIRED”. AN IMPROPER TREATMENT COULD DAM-
AGE THE WHOLE ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION.
Replacing headlight lamp/parking light lamp
Loosen both rubber bands and tilt headlight mask to the front. Pull the park-
ing light lamp with holder carefully out of the reflector. Pull connector [4] [5]
off the headlamp and remove rubber cap . Disengage retaining clip and[6]
take bulb out of reflector. When changing the parking-light lamp, simply pull
it out of the holder.
Slightly depress the bulb, turn it approx. 30° counterclockwise and pull it out
of the socket.
To mount the lamp reverse the worksteps indicated above.
2A
1
3
4
6
5
5
ENGLISH
43
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Cooling system
Coolant is circulated by a water pump located in the engine. When the[1]
engine is cold the coolant only circulates through the cylinder and the cylin-
der head. After the engine has reached its operating temperature (about 70°C,
158°F), the thermostat opens and the coolant is also pumped through[2]
both aluminum radiators.
Air blowing in through the radiators cools the coolant. The slower the speed
of the motorcycle, the less the coolant is cooled down. Dirty
radiators also reduce the cooling efficiency.
Pressure induced by heating of the coolant in the system is controlled by a
valve in the radiator cap [3]; a water temperature rising up to 120° C
(248° F) is admissible, without fear of problems.
– IF POSSIBLE, ALWAYS CHECK LEVEL OF COOLING LIQUID WHEN THE ENGINE
IS COLD. IF YOU HAVE TO OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE[3]
IS HOT, USE A RAG TO COVER THE CAP AND OPEN SLOWLY TO RELEASE PRES-
SURE. CAUTION - SCALDING HAZARD.
– DO NOT DETACH ANY RADIATOR HOSES WHILE THE ENGINE IS HOT. THE
ESCAPING HOT COOLANT AND THE STEAM MAY CAUSE SERIOUS BURNS.
– IN CASE YOU GET BURNT, HOLD THE AFFECTED PART OF YOUR BODY UNDER
RUNNING COLD WATER RIGHT AWAY.
– COOLANT IS TOXIC. KEEP THE COOLANT OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN.
– IN CASE COOLANT IS INGESTED, CONSULT A DOCTOR IMMEDIATELY.
– IF COOLANT GETS INTO YOUR EYES, RINSE THEM OUT WITH WATER IMMEDI-
ATELY AND CONSULT DOCTOR.
A mixture of 50% antifreeze liquid and 50% destilled water is used as coolant.
However, the antifreeze protection must be at least -25° C (-13° F). This mix-
ture offers antifreeze protection but also good corrosion protection and should
therefore not be replaced by pure water.
– THE COOLING SYSTEM MUST BE BLED AFTER DRAINING THE COOLING LIQ-
UID OR AFTER ADDING MORE THAN 0.25 L (0.06 US GALLONS) COOLING
LIQUID.(SEE BELOW).
– FOR THE COOLING SYSTEM, USE ONLY HIGH-GRADE ANTIFREEZE (E.G.
MOTOREX ANTI FREEZE). USING LOWER-GRADE ANTIFREEZE AGENTS CAN
CAUSE CORROSION AND COOLANT FOAMING.
– EXTREME CLIMATE CONDITIONS OR STOP AND GO TRAFFIC MAY CAUSE OVER-
HEATING PROBLEMS. TO AVOID THIS, AN ELECTRIC BLOWER IS OFFERED[4]
FOR MODELS WITH ELECTRIC STARTERS (ASK YOUR KTM DEALER)
Checking the coolant level
The coolant should be 10 mm (0.4 in) above the radiator fins when the engine
is cold (see diagram). In the event of the coolant being drained, always fill
and bleed the system.
IF POSSIBLE, ALWAYS CHECK THE LEVEL OF COOLING LIQUID WHEN THE ENGINE
IS COLD. IF YOU HAVE TO OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS[3]
HOT, USE A RAG TO COVER THE CAP AND OPEN SLOWLY TO RELEASE PRESSURE.
Bleeding the cooling system (SX, XC, EXC)
By removing the screw at the front end of the cylinder you can drain the[5]
coolant.
To bleed the cooling system, fill in approx. 0.8 liters (0.2 US gallons) of coolant
and remove the bleeder screw . Do not reinstall the bleeder screw until[6]
coolant escapes at the bore without any bubbles.
Then, fill in the coolant until it reaches a level about 10 mm above the
radiator fins.
After a short ride, check the coolant level once more.
3
4
5
6
when engine is cold
10 mm
1
1
2
SX, XC, EXC 250 SX-F
ENGLISH
44
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Replacing the glassfiber yarn packing of the silencer *
Aluminum silencers are filled with glassfiber yarn to muffle noise. Have the
filling checked regularly by an authorized KTM workshop (see Lubrication and
Service Chart). The insulating material fibers escape through the holes in the
perforated pipe with time, causing the silencer to „burn out“. In addition to
causing a higher noise-level, it will also affect the power characteristic. The
insulating material suitable for your exhaust is available from your authorized
KTM workshop.
By experience, the front glassfiber yarn packing [3] needs to be replaced more
often than the rear silencing mat [4].
For this purpose, remove the silencer from the vehicle and dismount the front
cap [5]. Pull the front glassfiber yarn packing together with the inner exhaust
pipe out of the silencer. Clean the front inner exhaust pipe.[6]
To facilitate the mounting procedure, you can make a mounting tool [7] out
of wood, plastic, or metal. Insert the mounting tool into the inner pipe and
mount the glassfiber packing. Push the inner pipe containing the packing into
the silencer such that the slot engages the web . Use a blunt ended object[A]
to stuff the glassfiber yarn packing all the way into the silencer, and mount
the front cap.
To change the rear silencing mat, start by removing the front packing and the
inner exhaust pipe. Then, drill open the rivets and remove the end cap [C].
NOTE:
In every exhaust repair procedure, the O-rings must be replaced by new ones.
Glass fiber yarn packings are available from your licensed KTM
mechanic.
Make sure the caps are screwed on tightly. Mount the muffler stress-free before
tightening the fixing screws.
THE EXHAUST SYSTEM BECOMES VERY HOT WHILE THE MOTORCYCLE IS RUN-
NING. TO AVOID BURNS DO NOT START WORK ON THE EXHAUST SYSTEM UNTIL
IT HAS PROPERLY COOLED DOWN.
Cleaning the spark arrester (XC/EXC USA) *
The spark arrester should be cleaned every time the glassfiber yarn filling is
changed or at least once annually.
For this purpose, dismount the silencer cap and remove any deposits that might
exist in region . Renew the O-ring and mount the silencer cap.[B]
2
1
Bleeding the cooling system (250 SX-F)
By removing the screw at the water pump cover you can drain the coolant.[1]
To bleed the cooling system, fill in approx. 1.0 liter (0.25 US gallons) of coolant
and remove the bleeder screw . Do not reinstall the bleeder screw until[2]
coolant escapes at the bore without any bubbles.
Then, fill in the coolant until it reaches a level about 10 mm above the
radiator fins.
After a short ride, check the coolant level once more.
B
SX
EXC
C
6
53
7
37
5
C
46
A
ENGLISH
45
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Cleaning the air filter *
The air filter must be cleaned prior to each race or whenever dust has accu-
mulated. To clean, lift the filter box cover [1]
(see illustration) and pull off towards the front.
Detach the bottom of the filter retaining bracket , tilt aside and remove[2]
the throttle cap and the air filter and filter support [3] [4] [5] from the filter
box. The SX models do not have a throttle cap.
– DO NOT CLEAN FOAM FILTER WITH FUEL OR PETROLEUM SINCE THESE DAM-
AGE THE FOAM. KTM RECOMMENDS THE PRODUCTS OF THE COMPANY
MOTOREX FOR AIR FILTER MAINTENANCE (BIO DIRT REMOVER AND LIQUID
BIO POWER).
– NEVER START YOUR MOTORCYCLE WITHOUT ANY AIR FILTERS. OTHERWISE,
DUST AND DIRT MAY PENETRATE AND CAUSE DAMAGE AND INCREASED WEAR.
– DUST AND DIRT CAN ACCUMULATE AND DAMAGE THE ENGINE IF THE AIR FIL-
TER IS NOT MOUNTED CORRECTLY.
Thoroughly wash the air filter in special cleaning fluid and allow it to dry well.
Only press out the filter, do not wring it out under any circumstances. Oil the
dry air filter with a high-grade filter oil. Also clean the air filter box. Check
the carburetor collar for damage and that it is filled correctly.
Mount the air filter on the filter support. Insert the air filter and filter support
in the throttle cap and mount them in the filter box, aligning in a central posi-
tion, and fix with the filter retaining bracket.
10 mm
68
7
10
11
1
2
3
2
3
4
5
Checking the adjustment of the hand decompression release cable *
Start the engine and, at idling speed, slowly pull the hand decompression
lever until you can feel the thumping of the rocker arm on the lever. The back-
lash until said thumping should be approx. 10mm, measured at the lever's
outer end. If necessary, correct this backlash.
To adjust, move back the protective cover , loosen the counter nut [6] [7] and
correct the adjustment screw accordingly. Tighten counter nut and push[8]
back protective cover.
THE SETTING OF THE DECOMPRESSION CABLE SHOULD BE CHECKED REGULARY.
IF THERE IS NO PLAY IN THE DEKO-LEVER, THIS CAN RESULT IN ENGINE
DAMAGE.
NOTE:
No adjustment need be made to the automatic decompressor.
Adjusting the throttle cables *
The throttle grip should always provide for a backlash of 3-5mm. Besides,
with the engine running, the idling speed must not change if you turn the
handlebar all the way to the left or right.
To adjust the throttle cables, dismount the seat and the tank together with
spoilers. Slide back the protection cover . Loosen the counternut [9] [10] and
turn the adjusting screw [11] accordingly. Turning the adjusting screw
counterclockwise will reduce the backlash, turning the adjusting screw clock-
wise will increase the backlash.
Tighten the counternut and check whether the throttle grip can be
actuated smoothly. Mount tank and seat.
9
ENGLISH
46
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Changing the original position of the clutch lever
The adjusting screw can be used for individual adjustment of the original[1]
position of the clutch lever, thus allowing adjustment to an optimal position
for every hand size.
Turning the adjusting screw counterclockwise reduces the distance between
the clutch lever and the handlebar. Turning the adjusting screw clockwise
increases the distance between the clutch lever and the handlebar.
ADJUSTMENT OF THE CLUTCH LEVER POSITION IS ONLY POSSIBLE WITHIN CER-
TAIN LIMITS. ONLY TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW MANUALLY AND NEVER APPLY
EXCESSIVE FORCE.
Checking the oil level of the hydraulic clutch
To check the oil level in the master cylinder of the clutch remove the cover.
For this purpose, remove screws and cover together with the rubber[2] [3]
boot [4]. The oil level in the horizontal-standing master cylinder should be 4
mm below the upper edge.
If necessary, fill up with biodegradable hydraulic oil SAE 10 (e.g. Motorex
Kupplungs-Fluid 75).Biodegradable hydraulic oil is available from your KTM
dealer (50ml).
KTM USES BIODEGRADABLE, HYDRAULIC MINERAL OIL TO ACTUATE THE HYDRAULIC
CLUTCH. DO NOT MIX THIS OIL WITH ANY OTHER HYDRAULIC OIL. ALWAYS USE
ORIGINAL KTM HYDRAULIC OIL (AVAILABLE FROM YOUR AUTHORIZED KTM WORK-
SHOP) TO MAKE SURE YOUR CLUTCH OPERATES SMOOTHLY.
NEVER REFILL WITH BRAKE FLUID.
Bleeding of the hydraulic clutch
If the clutch lever starts to feel unresponsive, the clutch control system needs
to be bled. You will need a bleeder syringe (special tool) and biodegradable
hydraulic oil. Both are available from your KTM dealer.
Turn the handlebar until the master cylinder is in a horizontal position, remove
the screws , the cover and the rubber boot . [2] [3] [4]
Fill the bleeder syringe [6] with biodegradable hydraulic oil (Motorex Kupplungs-
fluid 75). Remove the bleeder screw from the slave cylinder and mount[5]
the bleeder syringe. Press oil into the system until the oil runs out of the hole
[7] in the master cylinder without bubbles. Occasionally extract the oil from
the master cylinder reservoir to keep it from overflowing.
After you finish bleeding, remove the bleeder syringe, mount the bleeder screw,
correct the oil level in the reservoir and mount the cover (see above).
KTM USES BIODEGRADABLE, HYDRAULIC MINERAL OIL TO ACTUATE THE HYDRAULIC
CLUTCH. DO NOT MIX THIS OIL WITH ANY OTHER HYDRAULIC OIL. ALWAYS USE
ORIGINAL KTM HYDRAULIC OIL (AVAILABLE FROM YOUR AUTHORIZED KTM WORK-
SHOP) TO MAKE SURE YOUR CLUTCH OPERATES SMOOTHLY.
NEVER REFILL WITH BRAKE FLUID.
1
2
4
3
6
5
7
ENGLISH
47
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
CARBURETOR – Adjust idling (Keihin-FCRMX 37/39/41) *
Idling adjustment of the carburetor strongly affects the engine’s starting
behavior. That is, an engine whose idling speed is adjusted correctly will be
easier to start than one whose idling speed has not been adjusted correctly.
The idle speed is controlled by means of the adjusting wheel and the [1]
mixture control screw . The adjusting wheel is used to adjust the basic set-[2]
ting of the slide. The mixture control screw is used to control the idle mixture
which arrives at the engine by way of the idle system. Clockwise turning reduces
the fuel quantity (lean mixture), counterclockwise turning increases the fuel
quantity (rich mixture).
TO ADJUST IDLING CORRECTLY, PROCEED AS FOLLOWS:
1 Turn in mixture control screw up to the stop, and turn it back out to[2]
the basic position (see technical date-engine)
2 Warm up the engine
3
Use the adjusting wheel [1] to set the normal idle speed (1400 - 1500 rpm).
4 Turn mixture control screw slowly clockwise until idling speed starts[2]
to decrease. Memorize this position, and turn mixture control screw slowly
counterclockwise until the idling speed decreases again. Adjust the point
of the highest idling speed between these two positions. If, in the course
of this procedure, the speed undergoes a relatively high increase, reduce
the idle speed to a normal level and repeat the procedure specified in 4.
Serious competitive racers will choose a setting approx. 1/4 turn (clock-
wise) leaner than this ideal value because their engine will heat up more
when used in competitions.
NOTE: If you fail to obtain a satisfying result by following the procedure
described above, an incorrectly dimensioned idling nozzle may be the cause.
If:
a) the mixture control screw has been screwed in up to the stop without
causing any change in rotational speed, a smaller idling jet has to be
installed;
b) the engine dies when the mixture control screw is still open by
2 turns, a larger idling jet needs to be selected.
Naturally, in cases of jet changes, you have to start your adjusting work
from the beginning.
5 Then, use the adjusting wheel to set the desired idle speed.
6 In cases of greater changes in the outside temperature and extremely
different altitudes, the idling speed should be readjusted.
Basic information on carburetor wear
As a result of engine vibrations, the throttle valve, jet needle, and needle jet
are subjected to increased wear. This wear may cause the carburetor to mal-
function (e.g., overly rich mixture). Therefore, these parts should be replaced
after approx. 200 hours.
Adjusting the mixture control screw *
Especially on the EXC models, accessing the mixture control screw is diffi-
cult. For this reasons, we have created an appropriate special tool.
Introduce the special tool on the mixture control screw at the carburetor[2]
bottom. Press the tool slightly upward and turn the adjusting wheel [3] until
the tool engages the slot of the mixture control screw.
Now, you can go about adjusting the screw. Marks were provided on the
adjusting wheel, making it easier to keep track of the turns.
Checking the float level (float height) *
For this purpose, dismount the carburetor and remove the float chamber. Hold
the carburetor in a slanted position such that the float will abut the float nee-
dle valve but not compress it.
In this position, the edge of the float should be parallel with the float cham-
ber sealing surface (see illustration).
If the float height does not correspond to the desired value, check the float
needle valve and, if necessary, replace it.
If the float needle valve is o.k., you can adjust the float height by bending the
float lever [4].
Mount the float chamber, install the carburetor, and adjust the idle speed.
1
2
3
4
ENGLISH
48
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Draining the float chamber of the carburetor
Following every wet cleaning procedure, the float chamber of the carburetor
should be drained in order to remove any water that may have penetrated into
it. Water in the float chamber causes malfunctioning. Perform this task on a
cold engine.
Close the fuel tap and put one end of the hose into a collecting vessel.[1]
Open the drain plug (turning it counterclockwise) by serval turns, and drain[2]
the fuel from the float chamber. Then, retighten the drain plug and open the
fuel tap.
– FUEL IS EASILY FLAMMABLE AND TOXIC. WHEN HANDLING FUEL, BE SURE
TO EXERCISE THE UTMOST CAUTION. NEVER PERFORM ANY WORK ON THE
FUEL SYSTEM NEAR OPEN FLAMES OR BURNING CIGARETTES.
– ALWAYS ALLOW THE ENGINE TO COOL OFF FIRST. IMMEDIATELY CLEAN UP
ANY FUEL WHICH MAY HAVE BEEN SPILLED. MATERIALS SATURATED WITH
FUEL ARE ALSO EASILY FLAMMABLE. IN CASE YOU INGESTED FUEL OR FUEL
SPLASHED INTO YOUR EYES, CONSULT A DOCTOR IMMEDIATELY.
– DISPOSE OF THE FUEL PROPERLY.
Oil circuit (SX, XC, EXC)
Via the long oil screen [4], the oil pump draws engine oil from the oil sump[3]
of the transmission. This engine oil flows through an oil line into the cylin-[5]
der head for camshaft lubrication ; the oil quantity is controlled by the jet[6]
screw [7]. An oil duct branches off to the long oil filter [8] where the coarser
particles contained in the engine oil are filtered away. Then, the engine oil
arrives at the short oil filter [9] which also filters the fine particles. Now, the
purified engine oil is pumped past the bypass valve to the conrod bear-[10]
ing and sprayed from below onto the piston through a nozzle [11] [12].
The second oil pump draws the engine oil via the short oil screen [13] [14]
out of the crankcase, thereby lubricating the transmission gears [15].
Oil circuit (250 SX-F)
The oil pump [20] sucks engine oil from the transmission oil sump through
the long oil screen where any con-[21] and conveys it to the oil filter [22]
tamination is filtered out. The cleaned engine oil is pumped past the bypass
valve [23] [24]to the conrod bearing and sprayed onto the pistons from below
through a jet . [25]
Two other oil ducts lead into the cylinder head. One duct supplies the hydraulic
chain tensioner , the other duct leads to the camshaft bearing support[26]
[27], where the camshaft bearings and the cam lever are supplied with oil
(via spraying nozzles).
The second oil pump sucks the engine oil out of the crankcase through[28]
the short oil screen and uses it to grease the transmission gears [29] [30].
Checking the engine oil level
The engine oil level can be checked with the engine either warm or cold. Place
the motorcycle in an upright position and on a horizontal surface (not on the
side stand).
If the engine is cold, the engine oil must be visible at the lower edge of the
inspection glass [A].
If the engine is warm, the engine oil must be visible up to the upper edge of
the inspection glass [B].
Replenish the engine oil, if necessary.
INSUFFICIENT AMOUNTS OF OR LOW-GRADE ENGINE OIL LEAD TO PREMATURE
WEAR IN THE ENGINE.
2
1
B
A
3
4
56
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
15 14
28
20 22
21 23
24
25
26
29
30
27
ENGLISH
49
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Engine oil
Automobile engine oil used to be used for four-stroke motorcycles before there
were separate motorcycle specifications. Different technical developments made
it necessary to have a separate specification for four-stroke motorcycles - the
JASO T903 MA standard. Whereas car engines require long changing inter-
vals, motorcycle engines require a higher power output at higher speeds. Most
motorcycle engines also use the same oil to lubricate the transmission and
the clutch. The JASO MA standard responds to these special requirements.
Only use fully synthetic engine oils that meet the JASO MA quality require-
ments (see information on the can).
KTM recommends Motorex Power Synt 4T in the 10W/50 viscosity (for tem-
peratures over 0°C, 32°F) or 5W/40 (for temperatures under 0°C, 32°F).
INSUFFICIENT OIL OR POOR QUALITY OIL RESULTS IN PREMATURE WEAR OF THE
ENGINE.
Changing the engine oil *
Note: When changing the engine oil, it is necessary to clean the short and
long oil screens and to replace both oil filters (250 SX-F: only one oil filter).
Engine oil has be changed with the engine at an operating temperature.
AN ENGINE AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE AND THE ENGINE OIL IT CONTAINS ARE
VERY HOT – DO NOT BURN OR SCALD YOURSELF.
Place the motorcycle on a horizontal surface, remove the plug and allow[1]
the oil to drain into a receptacle.
Clean plug (with magnet) thoroughly.
Once the entire oil has been drained, clean the sealing surface, mount the
plug together with the sealing ring and tighten it to 20 Nm.
CLEANING THE SHORT OIL SCREEN
The short oil screen is accommodated in the hex-socket plug at the[2] [3]
engine bottom. Insert a pin-type key into the plug and tap on the key a few
times with a hammer in order to relieve the stress acting on the plug. Dismount
the oil screen, clean the components thoroughly and blow compressed air through
them. Check the O-rings for damage and, if necessary, replace them. Mount
the oil screen together with the plug again and tighten the plug to 10 Nm.
CLEANING THE LONG OIL SCREEN
The long oil screen is accommodated in the hexagon plug [4] adjacent to the
engine number. Dismount the plug together with the oil screen, clean the com-
ponents thoroughly and blow compressed air through them. Check the O-rings
for damage and, if necessary, replace them.
To mount the long oil screen , place it on an approx. 300 mm (12 in) long[5]
pin-type key or a similar tool. Insert the pin-type key through the opening into
the bore of the opposite engine casing wall. Then, push the oil screen into
the engine casing as far as possible. Remove the pin-type key, mount the plug
and tighten it to 15 Nm.
THE OIL SCREEN IS MOUNTED SLIGHTLY DOWNWARDS, INCORRECTLY FITTED,
THE SCREEN LOOSES ITS FUNCTION AND THIS CAN CAUSE INCREASED ENGINE
WEAR.
1
2
3
4
5
0°C
32°F
10W/50
5W/40
JASO T903 MA
TEMPERATUR
ENGLISH
50
MAINTENANCE WORK ON CHASSIS AND ENGINE »
Changing the oil filters
Remove the screw and swing the brake fluid container sideward. Place a[1]
receptacle underneath the engine to collect the drained oil. Remove the 4
screws and dismount the two oil filter covers.[2]
Using circlip pliers, pull the oil-filter inserts out of the housing.[3]
Clean the oil filter cover, the sealing surfaces of the O-rings and the engine
casing. Check the O-rings of the oil filter covers for damage and, if necessary,
replace them.
Put the motorcycle on its side and fill the oil filter housings about halfway
with engine oil. Fill oil filter with oil, place the long oil filter in the front and
the short filter in the back of the filter box.
Grease the O-rings of the oil filter covers and mount the covers. Mount[4]
the screws and tighten them to 6 Nm.
Position the brake fluid container and tighten the screw to 8 Nm.
Return the motorcycle to an upright position.
Remove the oil dipstick at the clutch cover and fill in 1.2 liters (250 [5]
SX-F: 1.1 liters) of fully synthetic engine oil (Motorex Power Synt 4T 10W/50).
Start the engine and check all screwed connections and the oil filter cover
for leaks.
Finally, check the engine oil level and, if necessary, correct it.
2
2
2
1
3
3
4
5
3
NOTE:
The 250 SX-F engine only has one oil filter insert [3].
ENGLISH
51
TROUBLESHOOTING »
TROUBLE CAUSE REMEDY
Engine doesn’t crank (E-starter). Operating errror
Blown fuse
Discharged battery.
Low outside temperature
Turn on the emergency-OFF switch (Australia only)
Dismount the left paneling and the filter box cover and
replace the fuse in the starter relay.
Recharge the battery and investigate the causes for
discharging; contact a KTM dealer.
Start the engine with the kickstarter
Engine cranks but doesn’t start (E-
starter).
Engine will not start (Kickstarter).
Operating error
The motorcycle has been out of opera-
tion for a longer period of time. Therefore
old fuel has accumulated in the float
chamber
Fuel supply interrupted
Flooded engine
Sooty or wet spark plug
Electrode gap too large
Spark plug connector or spark plug
faulty
Short circuit cable scored in wiring har-
ness, emergency OFF switch or short cir-
cuit button faulty
The plug connection of the CDI-unit, the
pulse generator or the ignition coil has
oxydized
Water in carburetor or jets blocked
Open fuel tap, tank fuel, actuate choke. Pay attention to
starting information (see driving instructions).
The easily inflammable components of the new fuels evap-
orate during longer periods of standing still.
When the motorcycle has been out of operation for more
than a week, it is therefore recommended to drain the old
fuel from the float chamber. The engine will immediately
start when the float chamber is filled with new fuel.
Close fuel tap, loosen fuel hose at carburetor, lead into a
basin and open fuel tap
– if fuel leaks out, the carburetor may need cleaning
– if no fuel leaks out, check tank ventilation, i.e. clean
fuel tap
In order to "pump the engine free", pull the hand decompres-
sion lever, fully rev up the engine, actuate the kickstarter 5
to 10 times or actuate the E-starter 2 times for 5 seconds
each. Then, start the engine as described above.
If the engine fails to start, unscrew the spark plug and dry it.
Clean and dry the spark plug or exchange it, respectively
Adjust spark plug electrode gap to 0.6 mm
Dismount spark plug, connect ignition cable, hold to
ground (blank place on engine) and actuate starter, a
strong spark must be produced at the spark plug
– If no spark is created replace the spark plug.
– If the new spark plug doesn't produce a spark either,
disconnect the spark plug connector from the ignition
cable, hold it a distance of approx. 5 mm from ground
and start.
– If a spark now occurs, replace spark plug cap
– If no spark is produced, control ignition system
Dismount the fuel tank, disconnect the black/yellow cable
from the cable of the emergency-OFF switch and the short-
circuit button, respectively, and check the ignition spark.
If a spark is generated, look for the problem in the short-
circuit circuit.
Remove the seat and the fuel tank. Clean the plug con-
nection and treat it with contact spray
Dismount and clean the carburetor
Engine fails to idle Glogged idling jet
Incorrect adjustment of adjusting
screws on carburetor
Defective spark plug
Defective ignition system
Disassemble the carburetor and clean the jets
Have the carburetor adjusted
Replace the spark plug
Have the ignition system checked
If you had the specified maintenance work on your motorcycle carried out, disturbances can hardly be expected. Should an error occur
nevertheless, we advise you to use the troubleshooting chart in order to find the cause of error.
We would like to point out that many operations cannot be performed by yourself. In case of uncertainty, please contact a KTM-dealer.
ENGLISH
52
TROUBLESHOOTING »
TROUBLE CAUSE REMEDY
Engine does not rev high Carburetor fuel level too high because float
needle valve is dirty or worn out
Loose carburetor jets
Electronic ignition timing faulty
Dismount carburetor and check if worn out
Tighten jets
Have ignition system checked
Engine will not reach full power Fuel supply partially interrupted or carbu-
retor dirty
Float leaks
Air filter very dirty
Exhaust system is not tight, deformed, or
the silencer does not contain enough glass-
fiber yarn
Valve gap too small
Loss of compression because hand decom-
pressor has no play
Electronic ignition timing faulty
Clean and check fuel system as well as carburetor
Replace the float
Clean or replace air filter
Check if exhaust is damaged, replace glasfiber yarn in
exhaust silencer
Adjust valve gap
Check setting of the hand decompression cable
Have ignition system checked
Engine stops or splutters in
carburetor
Insuffient fuel
Engine takes air out of control
Clean and check fuel system and carburettor
Check rubber sleeve and carburetor for tight fit
Engine gets too hot Insufficient cooling liquid
Not enough air stream
Cooling system has not been bled
Radiators very dirty
Foam formation in cooling system
Bent cooling hose
Thermostat defective
Blown fan fuse (XC Desert)
Defect thermoswitch (XC Desert)
Fan defective (XC Desert)
Refill cooling liquid (see maintenace work), check cooling
system for leaks
Drive on briskly (electric fan can be retrofitted)
Bleed cooling system
Clean radiators with water jet
Replace cooling liquid, use antifreeze liquid with brand name
Shorten or replace cooling hose
Dismount and check thermostat (opening temperature
70°C, (158°F) or replace it
Replace fuse and check if fan operates properly (see
below)
Contact a KTM dealer
Check if fan operates properly. To do this, start the
engine, then bypass the connections to the thermoswitch
(bottom right radiator), contact a KTM dealer
High oil consumption Hose of engine ventilation is bent
Engine oil level too high
Motor oil too thin (viscosity)
Dislocate i.e. replace non-buckling vetilation hose
Check engine oil level and, if necessary, correct it
Use thicker engine oil; see chapter “Engine oil“
All switched on lamps blown
out
Capacitor or voltage regulator faulty Dismount seat and fuel tank and check connections, have
capacitor and voltage regulator checked
Horn, flasher lights and
E-starter do not work
Blown fuse in the starter relay Dismount left side paneling and filter box cover, replace
fuse
The battery is discharged The battery isn’t charged by the generator
because
Remove seat and fuel tank and check voltage regulator con-
nections; voltage regulator and generator should be checked
by a KTM dealer.
ENGLISH
53
CLEANING »
Clean your motorcycle regularly in order to maintain the beauty of its plastic surfaces.
The best manner would be to use warm water that has been mixed with a normal brand-name washing detergent and a sponge.
The hard dirt can be removed before washing with the help of a soft water jet.
IF USING A POWER WASHER, DO NOT POINT THE WATER JET AT THE ELECTRIC COMPONENTS, PLUGS, CABLES, BEARINGS, CARBURETOR,
ETC. THE HIGH PRESSURE WILL CAUSE WATER TO PENETRATE INTO THE COMPONENTS AND CAN CAUSE THEM TO MALFUNCTION OR LEAD
TO PREMATURE WEAR.
– You should use normal brand-name detergents to clean the motorcycle. Especially dirty parts should also be cleaned with the help
of a paint brush.
– Before cleaning with water, plug the exhaust pipe to prevent water ingress
– After the motorcycle has been rinsed with a soft water jet, it should be dried by air pressure and a cloth. Drain the float chamber
of the carburetor. Then take a short drive until the engine has reached the working temperature and also use the brakes. By warm-
ing these components, the residual water can evaporate from inaccessable parts of the engine and the brakes.
– Slide back the protective covers on the handlebar-mounted instruments so that any water that may have seeped into this part of
the motorcycle is allowed to evaporate.
– Once the motorcycle has cooled down, oil or grease all sliding and bearing points. Treat the chain with a chain spray. Also oil the
fuel tap.
– To avoid any failures in of the electric system, you should treat the emergency-OFF switch, short-circuit button, light switch and
socket connectors with a contact spray.
In the event that the motorcycle is also used in winter and on roads where one has to expect salt spraying, you will have to take pre-
cautions against the aggressive road salt.
– clean the motorcycle thoroughly and let it dry after each ride
– treat the engine, carburetor, swing arm, and all other bare or galvanized parts (except for brake discs) with a wax-based anti-corro-
sion agent.
KEEP THE ANTI-CORROSION AGENT FROM GETTING INTO CONTACT WITH THE BRAKE DISCS, OTHERWISE THIS WILL SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCE
THE BRAKING POWER.
AFTER RIDES ON SALTED ROADS, CLEAN MOTORCYCLE THOROUGHLY WITH COLD WATER AND LET IT DRY WELL.
Should you wish to make a pause over a longer space of time, please observe the following instructions:
– Clean motorcycle thoroughly (see chapter: CLEANING)
– Change engine oil, short and long oil filters (old engine oil contains aggressive contaminants).
– Check antifreeze and amount of cooling liquid.
– Warm up the engine once again, close the fuel cock and wait until the engine dies. Then open the drain plug of the float chamber
to remove the remaining fuel.
– Remove spark plug and fill in approx. 5 ccm of engine oil into the cylinder through the opening. Actuate kick-starter 10 times in
order to distribute the oil onto the cylinder walls and mount the spark plug.
– Set piston to compression so that the valves will be closed (slowly operate the kickstarter until you can hear the automatic
decompressor click (release))
– Let fuel flow out of tank into an appropriate container.
– Correct tire pressure.
– Lubricate pivot points of the control levers, foot rests, etc. as well as the chain.
– Service the shock absorber linkage
– Disassemble and charge battery (see chapter: BATTERY).
– The storage place should be dry and not subjected to excessive temperature fluctuations.
– Cover the motorcycle with an air permeated tarpaulin or blanket. Do not use airtight materials as a possible humidity might not be
able to escape and could cause corrosion.
IT WOULD BE VERY BAD TO LET THE ENGINE RUN FOR A SHORT TIME DURING THE STORAGE PERIOD. THE ENGINE WOULD NOT GET WARMED
UP ENOUGH AND THE THUS DEVELOPED STEAM WOULD CONDENSE DURING THE COMBUSTION PROCESS AND CAUSE THE VALVES AND EXHAUST
TO RUST.
USE AFTER A PERIOD OF STORAGE
– Mount the charged battery (regard polarity).
– Set the time in the speedometer.
– Fill up tank with fresh fuel.
– Check motorcycle as before each start (see driving instructions).
– Take a short, careful test ride first.
NOTE: Before you put your motorcycle away for the winter, you should check all parts for their function and wear. Should any service
jobs, repairs, or any refitting be necessary, you should have them carried out during the off-season (lower workload at mechanics’ shops).
This way, you can avoid the long waiting times at your mechanic at the beginning of the next biking season.
CONSERVATION FOR WINTER OPERATION »
STORAGE »
ENGLISH
54
TECHNICAL DATA – ENGINE »
ENGINE 250 SX-F
Design Liquid-cooled single cylinder 4-stroke engine
Displacement 249.51 ccm
Bore/Stroke 76 / 55 mm
Ratio 12.8 : 1
Fuel unleaded fuel with at least RON 95
Valve timing 4 valves controlled by finger levers and 2 camshafts,
driven by a pair of spur gears and a tooth-type chain
Camshaft 05
Valve diameter Intake 30.9 mm
Valve diameter Exhaust 26.5 mm
Valve clearence cold Intake 0.10 - 0.20 mm (0.004 - 0.008 in)
Valve clearence cold Exhaust
0.12 - 0.22 mm (0.005 - 0.009 in)
Crank shaft bearing 2 cylinder roller bearings
Connecting rod bearing needle bearing
Top end bearing bronze bushing
Piston alluminium alloy forged
Piston rings 1 compression ring, 1 oil scraper ring
Engine lubrication pressure circulation lubrication with 2 rotor pumps
Engine oil full synthetic oil (Motorex Power Synt 4T 10W/50)
Quantity of engine oil 1.1 liters
Primary drive 22:68
Transmission claw shifted 6-speed
1st gear 13:32
2nd gear 15:30
3rd gear 17:28
4th gear 19:26
5th gear 21:25
6th gear 22:24
Ignition system contactless DC-CDI ignition with digital advanced system by KOKUSAN
Generator no generator
Spark plug NGK CR 9 EBK
Cooling system liquid cooled, permanent rotation of cooling liquid through mechanically driven water pump
Cooling liquid 1.2 liters, 50% antifreeze, 50% destilled water, at least -25° (-13° F)
Engine oil
Only use fully synthetic engine oils that meet the JASO MA quality require-
ments (see information on the can).
KTM recommends Motorex Power Synt 4T in the 10W/50 viscosity (for tem-
peratures over 0°C, 32°F) or 5W/40 (for temperatures under 0°C, 32°F).
POOR OIL QUALITY OR MINOR QUANTITY CAUSE EARLY ENGINE-WEAR.
0°C
32°F
10W/50
5W/40
JASO T903 MA
TEMPERATUR
ENGLISH
55
TECHNICAL DATA – ENGINE »
BASIC CARBURATOR SETTING
250 SX-F
Type
Keihin FCR-MX 3925D
Main jet 168
Jet needle OBETP
Idling jet 40
Main air jet 200
Idling air jet 100
Needle position 5th from top
Starting jet 85
Mixture control screw open 1.25
Slide 15
Performance restrictor –
Stop pump membrane 858 / 2.15 mm
Hot start device 2.5 mm
TIGHTENING TORQUES – ENGINE 250 SX-F
Hexagon collar screw, engine case, clutch cover, ignition cover, water pump cover
M6 10 Nm
Oil drain plug M12x1.5 20 Nm
Allen head plug, oil screen short Oil + 10 NmM16x1.5
Hexagon plug, oil screen long M20x1.5 15 Nm
Collar screw for oil filter cover M5 6 Nm
Plug pressure valve M12x1.5 20 Nm
Screws, oil pump cover Loctite 222 + 6 NmM5
Hexagon collar screw, cylinder / cylinder head M6 10 Nm
Cylinder head screw Oil + 40/50 Nm M10
Hexagon collar screw, exhaust flange Loctite 243 + 10 NmM6
Valve cover screws M6 10 Nm
Camshaft screw Loctite 243 + 80 NmM12x1
Collar screw/nut camshaft bearing support Oil + 18 NmM7
Hexagon nut, primary gear Loctite 243 + 150 NmM18x1.5 left
Nut for inner clutch hub Loctite 243 + 120 NmM18x1.5
Hexagon collar screw, clutch spring M6 10 Nm
Allan head screw, shift roller locking piece Loctite 243 + 10 NmM6
Hexagon collar screw, locking lever Loctite 243 + 6 NmM5
Locking screw for shift roller bearing Loctite 243 + 6 NmM6
Locking screw for main shaft bearing Loctite 243 + 6 NmM6
HH collar screw clip/tensioning rail Loctite 243 + 10 NmM6
Plug for chain tensioner M24x1.5 25 Nm
Hexagon collar screw, stator SX Loctite 243 + 6 NmM5
Hexagon collar screw, pulser coil Loctite 243 + 6 NmM5
Hexagon collar nut, flywheel M12x1 60 Nm
Hexagon collar screw, bump part kickstarter Loctite 243 + 10 NmM6
Cable retaining bracket (ignition) Loctite 243 + 6 NmM6
Allan head screw, kickstarter Loctite 243 + 25 NmM8
Hexagon collar screw, shift lever Loctite 243 + 10 NmM6
Hexagon screw, engine sprocket Loctite 243 + 60 NmM10
Spark plug M10 10-12 Nm
ENGLISH
56
TECHNICAL DATA – ENGINE »
ENGINE 250 EXC 400 EXC 450 SX 450 XC 450 EXC 525 SX 525 XC 525 EXC
Design Liquid-cooled single cylinder 4-stroke engine with balancer shaft
Displacement 250 cc 398 cc 449 cc 449 cc 448 cc 510 cc
Bore/Stroke
75 / 56.5 mm
89 / 64 mm
95 / 63.4 mm 95 / 63.4 mm
89 / 72 m 95 / 72 mm
Ratio 12 : 1 11 : 1 12 : 1 12 : 1 11 : 1 11 : 1
Fuel unleaded fuel with at least RON 95 (USA = Premium RON 91)
Valve timing 4 valves over rocker arm and 1 overhead camshaft, camshaft drive through single chain
Camshaft 5532 595/0121 590/5521 590/5521 590/5521 590/5521
Valve diameter Intake 28 mm 35 mm
35 mm (Titan)
35 mm 35 mm 35 mm
Valve diameter Exhaust 24 mm 30 mm
30 mm (Titan)
30 mm 30 mm 30 mm
Valve clearence cold Intake 0.10 - 0.15 mm (0,004 - 0,006 in)
Valve clearence cold Exhaust 0.10 - 0.15 mm (0,004 - 0,006 in)
Crank shaft bearing 2 cylinder roller bearing
Connecting rod bearing needle bearing
Top end bearing bronze bushing
Piston alluminium alloy cast cast forged forged cast forged
Piston rings 1 compression ring, 1 oil scraper ring
Engine lubrication pressure circulation lubrication with two rotor pumps
Engine oil full synthetic oil (Motorex Power Synt 4T 10W/50)
Quantity of engine oil 1.25 liters
Primary ratio straight geared spur wheels 33:76 Z
Clutch multi disc clutch in oil bath
Transmission claw shifted 6-speed 6-speed 4-speed 6-speed 6-speed 4-speed 6-speed 6-speed
Gear ratio
1st Gear 14:38 14:34 16:32 14:34 14:34 16:32 16:32 14:34
2nd Gear 16:36 17:31 18:30 17:31 17:31 18:30 18:30 17:31
3rd Gear 19:34 19:28 20:28 20:28 19:28 20:28 20:28 19:28
4th Gear 21:32 22:26 22:26 22:26 22:26 22:26 22:26 22:26
5th Gear 23:30 24:23 24:24 24:23 24:24 24:23– –
6th Gear 22:25 26:21 21:18 26:21 21:18 26:21– –
Ignition system contactless DC-CDI ignition with digital advanced system by KOKUSAN
Generator 12V 150W 12V 150W 12V 150W– –
Spark plug NGK DCPR 8 E
Spark plug gap 0.6 mm (0.02367 in)
Cooling system liquid cooled, permanent rotation of cooling liquid through mechanically driven water pump
Cooling liquid 1 liter, 50% antifreeze, 50% destilled water, at least -25° (-13° F)
Starting equipment kick - electric starter kickstarter kick - electric starter kickstarter kick - electric starter
Engine oil
Only use fully synthetic engine oils that meet the JASO MA quality require-
ments (see information on the can).
KTM recommends Motorex Power Synt 4T in the 10W/50 viscosity (for tem-
peratures over 0°C, 32°F) or 5W/40 (for temperatures under 0°C, 32°F).
POOR OIL QUALITY OR MINOR QUANTITY CAUSE EARLY ENGINE-WEAR.
0°C
32°F
10W/50
5W/40
JASO T903 MA
TEMPERATUR
Produktspezifikationen
| Marke: | KTM |
| Kategorie: | Motorrad |
| Modell: | 400 EXC Racing (2006) |
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